Anybody know a civvy part # for brake shoes?
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Anybody know a civvy part # for brake shoes?
There is a way to adapt a civilian shoe....this is a repost from WetCJ:
Quote:
Got my truck driveable just weeks before the 04 FE but it needed brakes. Had read about and knew that Joe/IA was using the "#60" brake shoes. MikeG (who I work with) convinced the local O'Reillys to sell them to us at about $35 since we'd be buying several sets between my truck and his fleet. Required different upper springs also, Raybestos #H122 is what we used.
I installed the new shoes with new wheel cylinders(from ABLinn) on the rear first. Got the wife to come down and help me bleed it. After about a half an hour she was tired and I was ed, could not get a decent pedal (should mention that I had previously installed a new 1970 Impala, drum/ drum, dual 1" master cyl. so I knew that wasn't an issue). Tried adjusting the brakes up tighter and found that it didn't seem to adjust properly. I always adjust them out tight then back them off the same number of "clicks" on both sides and something just didn't feel right in that process. Took a drum back off the next night and after staring at it for a while decided that the position of the anchor pin at the top of the backing plate didn't allow the shoes to center properly, it tried to position them too high in the drum.
Since the shoes looked identical to the originals other than the top and a minor difference in the adjuster notch depth (which the adjuster could compensate for) I decided to modify them.
I made this jig
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe1.jpg
Original shoe in jig
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe2.jpg
Unmodified #60 shoe
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe3.jpg
Cutting the shoe
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe4.jpg
Cut, just clean up with a file
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe5.jpg
This bump on the bottom of the shoe needs to be ground flat also (insides only) to work with the M715 backing plate, don't try hammering flat, shoe will crack (voice of experience)
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe6.jpg
Installed
http://www.m715zone.com/jonmisc/brakeshoe7.jpg
After doing both axles this way they adjusted properly, bled properly (wife was happier) and worked good with very little pedal travel.
Note- I did mine this way because I liked the idea of locally available parts and they were cheaper than original shoes at that time which may not be true anymore.
I just bought some similar Chevy drum shoes made by Satisfied brake here in town. They look very similar to the ones in the above photos. I was wondering if anybody has tried running them without cutting off the top portion. The reason why I ask is they seem to fit up nicely against the round center top pin IF you pull off the trapezoid spacer/adapter.
Again, I have no idea if they would work and don't know what the stock Chevy drum setup looks like.
Finally, half of the new shoes are slightly thicker then the other half. I was thinking of replacing the most worn shoe on each drum with the thicker of the new shoe...sound good to you all?
Thanks for your help again guys.
They didn't fit well against the round pin at the top when I tried that myself. I still had to cut the top portion of the shoe off to make them work.
They look like they would, but, no.
James They will fit but won't work..
I'm on vacation now give me a shout I can give you a hand this week.
Let us not forget the arrow on the trap block must point forward according to the quirk manual. I just finished my re-cyl job and then found out I had 50% wrong!!
What is the actual NAPA part number for the shoes and the springs? Getting tired of the "what vehicle is this off" response from the parts counter.
Can anyone confirm that the vehicle they fit is a 94 chevy K3500 4WD SRW?
Part number I get from Autozone and Part America is 451. Picture appears to be what is shown above.
13 x 2-1/2" shoe
txs
The part number I used is #60 or TS60 NAPA. Then you need the return springs which are United/NAPA #81233
The shoes were $60.00 for the set and the springs were $10.00 back in April of this year.
Here is a NAPA link: http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...d=3&SubCatId=1
This listing is for a 30 series rear brake shoe set on a P30 Chevy chassis....I also seem to recall they fit the J30 Jeep chassis too. They are 13" X 2.5" The Gladiator used them too:
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...d=3&SubCatId=1
Before you go modifying civvie stuff.
You can get the your current pads re-shoed from Memphis EQ, or buy all new ones - OE stock. No mods needed.
Zach
Thanks. Still confused but getting closer.
Trying to decide if I should have them relined or modify the NAPA ones.
Whatever happened to the post about using the chevy backing plate? I have been away, and lost it.
The reason I did the mod, was because when I called Memphis they wanted $25 per shoe for relined and my old ones in exchange. That is $100 per axle. $200 for the truck. Then I have to wait a week for UPS to bring the shoes and sit on the core charge for another week. I can buy brake shoes for my Deuce, which are twice that size for the same price, and outright with no core exchange. I think the M715 shoes are overpriced personally, but that is just my opinion.
In this case, I had a few old GM axles laying around, stripped a set of old shoes and sent them back for the core on a $60 complete set of shoes which are readily available off the shelf. With a quick measurement, and less that 20 minutes, I had all four shoes modified to fit. The one time expense of $10 for the springs makes that a non-issue for future replacement. The switch to the E250 Ford wheel cylinders also assures that I will always be able to procure them locally as well.
A 15 to 20 bucks relining, even 25 bucks, for my understanding is the better choise than to modify some civil parts. Original shoe is allways original. If you have the choise of instead 1/4 inch get a lining of f.e. 7 mm (only .65 mm thicker than 1/4 inch), you also pass the problems with the drum wear out.
When I order brake shoes to be relined, I always ask for 7 mm thickness, even this is no standard measure for linings over here. Here you get 6 mm, 8 mm or 10 mm linings to be afixed to the shoe. The diffenence they grind down for no extra costs over here. We pay some 25 Euro per shoe and think that this price is fair, VAT of 19 % will be added!
For this price we get asbestos free first quality lining material, heat resistant, low wear of the lining and less of the drum.
Wolf
Jester, I may have extras. You can have them and give me your old ones for cores. I think they are all good too. No lets see where did I see those again.
I have some as well.
You guys are late....Jester needed the shoes two years ago.....LOL
Seems NAPA has changed their site and not for the better. It takes a lot longer to find anything and I am not absolutely certain these are the same shoes, as the part numbers are all different, but here is a link:
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...+50014+2014076
The TS320 is the correct measurement. They don't have any listings for the larger Jeeps anymore.
Thanks for the quick response. The TS TS320 shoes are listed for a 1972 Chevy truck P30 1 ton step van. I think I'll be giving it a try this weekend.
If brakes shoes were wood, I'd do em. Just a thought, If someone made the jig, and knew how to do it right, would there be enough profit in them to change-up a bunch of them to sell to zoners?
Several people have made a jig to do the shoe alterations in the past. I just can't remember who.
Honestly, you don't need the jig to do them. I simply marked my new shoes by measuring the originals, then scribed them and cut them with a portable bandsaw at the top. It took all of about 10 minutes total, and they've been in trouble free service for the last 3 years now.
Raybestos #H122
Thanks.
While doing a survey of the needed brake parts for my M715, I found that the front wheel cylinders had leaked a little. I know you may be able to clean them with denatured alcohol but I was not comfortable with that.
I got rebuilt shoes from A. B. Linn and they are riveted and they look good. But I have not tried to install them yet. It is still cold here!
"News at 11..."
Today it was not as cold. I finished the passenger side brake job. I had already bent a new steel line from the junction block on the differential to the wheel cylinder and installed that. Next, I went to the driver side. Of course, that steel line was damaged. I made a new one and it is fine. Replaced the wheel cylinder and of course, one of the brake return springs broke. So I need to replace that.
Does anyone know of a source of brake return springs that are not $10.00 each? While replacing one for that amount won't kill me. But I thought it may be a good idea to replace all 8 of them. But $80.00 for springs is a bit ridiculous. If they cost that much, I can buy what I need. But best way replace them all.
BTW, the rear shoes are all secondary shoes, no short lining shoes. The new riveted ones I got from A.B. Linn are secondary and primary. They will go on the front. Wadda Ya Think?
Comments and suggestions are always welcome.
Thanks,
I bought a whole replacement set of brake spring hardware including the retainer pins even...would make you a deal on that...enough for 1 axle at least.
I bought it from VPW...it was pricey for the setup as I ought it and wouldnt recommend that as the first choice...I would sell what I have for less than half of what they wanted...
Foodstamp posted a part number in another thread...I felt it needed to be included here:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showpost....&postcount=308
Several miles to a NAPA store for me, so I thought I would add some links that may help others.
Brake shoes from O'Reillys: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...36&keyword=451
(New, no core charge.)
O'Reilly Wheel cylinders:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=w37262
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=w37263
(I get a discount through my employer, but I think they quoted me about $13.00 each before the discount.)
O'Reilly shows the H122 springs on their website but the counter man could not get anything to come up, so I ordered them from here:
http://www.finditparts.com/t/categor...raybestos-h122
(A quantity of 1 gets you four springs, or enough for one axle, so you need to order 2 to convert both axles.)
None of the parts were in stock at the store, but as Springfield, MO is O'Reilly's headquarters, they were in the warehouse, and available same day for me.
raybestos # H122 crossed to Napa #81233 four springs in the kit.
Trap block is that block of solid steel that goes over the anchor pin at the top of the backing plate. Usually, shoes have a half-moon cutout that rests around the anchor pin. But on the M715, there is a block that goes over the pin and the shoes just press on the block. The block has an arrow and the arrow should point forward on the vehicle. The forward end is also a little rounded at the top.
Here is what it looks like. Note the arrow at the top. It is pointing to the right so this wheel must be on the passenger side of the vehicle. Short shoe is the front shoe.
http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/d/1...chor_Block.jpg
Picture courtesy: "The M715 Zone 5/4 Quirks Manual"