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Locker install
Post by sermis on Oct 13, 2006, 7:05am
I have read the posts before but can't find it.
Are there any parts in the carrier that are retained?
What is the torque for the carrier halves and carrier bearings?
I am going to replace the 4 carrier bolts with grade 8.
Any other tips or tricks?
Re: Locker install
Post by barrman on Oct 13, 2006, 9:05am
Doug wrote that really good locker intall article. I have it printed out at home. Here is what I remember from doing mine.
Drain the lube. While it is draining, undo the axle bolts at the hubs. Use a big hammer to hit the middle of the axle flange. This will knock the cone shaped keepers loose enough to grab with some pliers. Pull the axle shafts out about a foot.
You can now jack up the back if you want.
Remove the rear cover.
Mark your carrier bearing caps now!
Remove the 4 carrier bearing cap bolts, pry out the caps and put them someplace clean and out of the way.
Your carrier either fell out when you pulled the caps, or it won't come out now. Put something soft underneith it. Using a big screw driver or pry bar, work the ring gear out. It helps if the e-brake is off and the pinion can turn while you do this. It weighs about 40 pounds or so, so watch your fingers when it come out.
Once it is out, stand it up on a work bench. I used a needle pointer type torque wrench to break the first of the 8 or so bolts loose just to see what torque it was at. I "think" 60 ft-lbs was what the book said and what mine came loose at. Pull all the bolts out.
Split the case and remove the spider gears. Stuff the locker springs and plates in there and tighten the bolts back to 60.
Clean the diff housing out with spray brake cleaner. Clean the carrier all up and work it back in. Turning it as you push helps.
Make sure you put the outter bearing races in and on the same side they were on before. Put the caps back on and start your new bolts. No matter how much you pushed on the carrier, the bolts are going to push it in somemore. So, work all 4 bolts a little at a time until they are all around 50 ft-lbs or so.
Here is where the controversy starts. The manual calls for 110 ft-lbs on the cap bolts. I put grade 8 bolts in and was working them up to 110 in 10 pound increments. One of them stretched at 90. I put the spare bolt I bought in and stopped at 90 for all 4. I think Doug stopped at 80 on his. Bump-r has his at 70 I think. All of ours are still in there and working.
Silicone the axles and bolt them back in. Clean and silicone the cover and put it on. Add oil and tear up your yard.
Re: Locker install
Post by robertcowan on Oct 13, 2006, 4:43pm
NO NEED TO REPLACE THE BOLTS THERE GOOD STILL .........
Re: Locker install
Post by sermis on Oct 13, 2006, 8:36pm
Do I need to reuse the thrust washers that were on the original spider gears? I am thinking not, just want to be sure.
Re: Locker install
Post by robertcowan on Oct 14, 2006, 8:29am
NO REMOVE ALL THE GUTS AND INSTALL LOCKER IN THERE PLACE. OIL IT UP BEFORE YOU BOLT IT BACK TOGETHER . USE 85W140 GEAR OIL
Re: Locker install
Post by dave on Nov 2, 2006, 5:19am
as you put the axles back in poor some of the grease in the hubs and shove the axles in so that you have some lube in the bearings until it works its way out to the hubs and it will help save the bearingsfrom running dry and going out on you.
Re: Locker install
Post by bigwheelbob on Nov 2, 2006, 7:56am
Quote: <TABLE class=bordercolor cellSpacing=1 width="90%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%"><TABLE class=quote cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%">as you put the axles back in poor some of the grease in the hubs and shove the axles in so that you have some lube in the bearings until it works its way out to the hubs and it will help save the bearingsfrom running dry and going out on you.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>To expand on this a bit, I usally pack the rear bearings, just as you would do the front, that way they would never be dry.
Re: Locker install
Post by tacomainoh on Nov 2, 2006, 8:50am
Replace the bolts. Doug has a great picture illustrating WHY you want to do that.
Re: Locker install
Post by gimpyrobb on Nov 2, 2006, 9:31am
So you don't have to wait for princess pink slippers to chime in, he stretched the sh1t out of the stockers, use grade 8!
Re: Locker install
Post by jeepistdougiowa on Nov 14, 2006, 8:54am
Sorry, been busy.
This stretch occured before factory torque specs had been reached. Talked to a few more who have had the same thing happen since. Not worth the risk to keep them IMO.
If I recall correctly they are 2.25" long...guessing a little there though.
http://thumb2.webshots.net/s/thumb4/...6oviyOw_th.jpg
Re: Locker install
Post by tacomainoh on Nov 14, 2006, 2:42pm
I also highly recommend synthetic lube. It just sticks to metal better and doesn't sludge up and cake to the housing like gear oil.
Thanks for the pic, Doug, it's a classic.
Re: Locker install
Post by bigwheelbob on Nov 14, 2006, 6:03pm
Wow!, I do rear ends every day for a living, have never replaced the bolts, and have never seen anything like that.
Re: Locker install
Post by gimpyrobb on Nov 14, 2006, 6:48pm
Its probably just Dougs man hand.
Re: Locker install
Post by gonz on Nov 15, 2006, 10:37am
I felt mine starting to stretch out when I replaced bearings/races. I remember it was well below the 110 pounds. I think I left mine at 85#s- gonz