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I have a set of Selectro hubs on order (p/n 11035-01). Thanks to the many threads on this, most of the prelim questions are answered.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8191
I plan on replacing the studs with grade 8 bolts. I know that they are 7/16-14 but how long - unconfirmed rumor was 1-1/2? Washers and lock washers?
I am going to actually try to document the process when I do the install. I know its not rocket science but all the info in spot may help someone.
The bolts on mine have backed out a couple of times. I plan to replace them with studs once again--albeit shorter versions since they are finger grabbers.
This happened to me too, even with lock washers. I've never heard it mentioned before and I was really surprised to see it.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker
I used 1 1/2 length bolts.
Anyone try Locktite? That and a good lockwasher should work...hopefully...
Nasty things to lose offroad...
Hazel mentioned in an unrelated article in JP something about this tendancy with bolts rather than studs. Since the factory used studs, I thought I'd go back that way. Just too lazy to round up the parts yet. The factory ones tend to make operation of the knob a little difficult.
Hmm. Good to know. Think I will start with bolts, lock washers and locktite.
That's what I did. After the bolts kept backing out on me without the locktite. I still check them though. Haven't driven it much since I put the locktite on though....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jester
You can get crimped lock nuts to go on the new studs. They have the three stamps that deform the last thread or two and stay put well. Be sure and get grade 5 or 8 studs. I ran a home made full float kit on the back of my CJ for years with this set up. With a locker it was hard to find something that worked and stayed tight. Those nuts did.
My duece selectros came with new bolts and lock washers. I need to check them.
I used grade 8 bolts (don't remember the length) and lock washers. I did use Blue Locktite as well. Be sure when you do that to use Blue as it is removeable, and also to clean the thread holes very well, or else the Loctite won't do much in a oily or greasy bolt hole.
I've logged quite a few miles both off and on road and never had one loosen yet.
The hubs arrived yesterday. Put them on today.
Bolts are grade 8. Size is 7/16-14x1-1/2". Grade 8 washers and lock washers as well.
First off was getting the old flanges off and the studs out. I backed off the nuts then welded them to the end of the stud. A couple were stubborn but eventually got them all out.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/picture.p...&pictureid=193
Once they were out, I chased the threads and cleaned everything up to get all the grease off.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/picture.p...&pictureid=194
Following the instructions, I took the handle off the hub and mounted the flange. A little blue loctite on each bolt in addition to the lock washer.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/picture.p...&pictureid=195
Then the handle was remounted to the flange. The whole process was about 2 hours including messing with a couple of stubborn studs.
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/picture.p...&pictureid=196
Hows she ride unlocked now vs before?
Wish I knew.:mad: Have the rear axle out for a gear replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by SVENG52
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19783
Nice job, great pics!!
Lets hope you have no issues with the bolts backing up...
Thanks for posting the great pictures.
Mine just came in. Hopefully Ill have my rig back together and these unlocked for a drive very soon
Mine came with selectros already done Luckaly for me. Hopefully there done right and not going to back out. havent driven enough to know yet.
Hi:
My rig is in transit to me, I anticipte it by end of February. Vendor has been big help but cant answer these questions.
First two are related to the selctro. I heard of one fella putting some on the rear axle too so he can tow his rig on its own wheels without disconnecting the drive shaft. Does this make sense? What is the lug pattern? I have seen 6x7.25" and want to make sure so I can order new rims.
The third regards the hard top. Is it possible to remove and re-install it easily? I want to have it off for the summer, but put it back on for winter.
Thanks for the help.
Andrew.
Never seen a set of Selectros that will fit the rear axle...I made a couple of flat metal plates to bolt in place of the rear axle to use when flat towing so the rear gears wouldnt turn...remove the rear axle and bolt the plate on.
The bolt pattern is 6 on 7.25...Marsh Racing Wheels, among others, makes wheels in this pattern and they have the lowest price.
Hardtop...well...if it is a factory hardtop, its removeable...if it was installed right. If it is not, there is no telling how it was put on...many are found to be riveted or welded to the soft top frames or even bolted and welded to the truck. In the 16 years I have been playing with these trucks, 4-5 times as many hard tops that I have encountered are the non stock type...
Thanks tons
I just put mine on this week. Pretty easy to do.
I chose (for now) to leave the studs in instead of using bolts. Problem is, with the studs sticking out so far, you can't really get a good grip on the knob to turn it, I guess when they are muddy and wet, it is nearly impossible. So bolts are the way to go.
Does make a noticeable difference driving with the lock-out hubs on now.
Scott
Here's the photo of the hubs installed with the studs. Not too user-friendly.
[IMG]http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/o...tail/013-3.jpg[/IMG]
Scott
When I did mine I replaced all the studs with a shorter version. Much more driver-friendly.
Sawzall.
Where do you find selectro hubs? It would be nice since my rig will be on-road more than off.
you can find them almost anywhere, Can't remember the part number, but a Google search should bring up multiple sites you can buy them from.
typical price range is $275-325, sometimes you can find cheaper
O.K part number was on first page, P/N 11035-01, also put here for those who get temporary blindness when reading all the previous posts;)
I could have sworn I typed a long reply to this...somehow it is gone...
BigWheelBob, one of our members sold them last I heard for less than anyone else, $250 including shipping...he listed this phone number to contact him about Selectros:
910-326-2881
If that doesnt work, these are the cheapest I found online:
http://truckandwinch.com/mile-marker...cking-hub.html
I've seen them on Ebay for around $275-295. Planning on getting some in spring 2016, one of many 'to do' items.
I put selectro hubs on my 715 and i immediately broke them. I made a machined socket that fit over the outer hub so i wouldnt have any trouble grabbing and turning the hub. mind you i did not shorten the stock studs. well the socket tool works great but it broke the stock plastic cam inside the hub because it spun the cam because the PLASTIC cam is barely retained by the 3 screws that hold it inside. so I took them apart and made cnc machined metal cams. and I remade the screw studs that hold the cam. I also remade the screw studs that hold the hand hub onto the base plate. the 3 studs just engage the groove in the base plate. they were super sloppy in the groove so i made them tighter fit in the groove. with the new metal cams. new retaining screws and the hand tool socket I can crank the hub lock to unlock with very positive action and no slop, and no fear of breaking anything. it was a bit of work but worth it. Ill try and get some pics.
I have a set on my 715.The reworking of yours sounds awesome to a person who can barely sharpen a pencil.While you were doing all of this work did you come up with a cost if maybe you though of offering your redone parts to other Selectro owners. Maybe without the socket? Just asking
I thought of it. im a machinist and I was working at a shop where i had free reign over the machines there in my off time so i was doing this for free for my self. its possible i could produce just the cam and pins but i would need a shop that could do 4 axis milling for me to make any more of them. I still have the cad model of the cam i made. the pins were specific because i remachined and tapped the hand hub for them. they were larger overall with larger threads into the hand hub and all.Quote:
Originally Posted by 68bluegreen
I plan to buy a set of Selectros, and would be very interested in replacing the plastic parts with the metal ones you machined, if at all possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by AHood
That's no place for plastic, IMHO.
Heres the socket tool.
http://i65.tinypic.com/9iwl92.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/191izo.jpg
Can someone detail the hub installation process for me?
I received my new Selectros yesterday and the instruction sheet included is written as though there was an exploded view of the hub with the components numbered. There isn't, so I have no idea what the hell they mean: "CAUTION!!! If the screws in position B should be removed...." On and on, not worth paper they're printed on.
The last time I messed around with Selectro hubs was the mid-'80's when a Landcruiser mechanic showed me how to service/disassemble them, and I've forgotten what he said.
I followed the instructions when I installed the first side... second side I asked myself WHY?! On that one I just pulled the axle plate off and bolted the assembled hub in place.
I used some Ultra Black instead of a gasket.
Thanks Von. I'll do that. The instructions included with my hubs are unusable, so why not?Quote:
Originally Posted by Von
FYI the early Selectros had metal cams. They are swappable from the small bolt pattern hubs to the large. So if you can score a pair off a CJ or similar cheap you can run the whole dial assembly on your M715 hubs.
That is great tech...thanks for posting it!!!
OK maybe I missed it somewhere. Why replace the studs with bolts anyway? I never saw a stud come loose.
One reason, the studs sticking up around the selector makes it a pain. Especially the 4 long studs. I used some grade 5 allen head bolts I had on hand, kept meaning to switch to grade 8 but never got around to it...Quote:
Originally Posted by nolfy
Woop!! I got those ring and pinion gears installed in my truck a week or two ago.
YUGE difference... The 390, 4 speed and the 4.56 gears get along very nicely.
Excellent, they remind me of the designs I saw in my favorite web forum SEO, it has excellent information