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When installing the gas tank dose it need to be completely insulated from the frame? I mean insulated from where it touches the bottom of the bed and from where the straps contact the tank? Took it out 5 years ago and got very ill due to cancer. Now I am cancer free but for the life of me I can not remember how it was installed before that. Thanks for any help in advance. Ed
The "only" reason to insulate it is to protect it from wearing thin due to vibration. Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that the tank has to be grounded via the fuel level sender for it to work. It's been several years since I put my tank in so I don't remember if there is a wire. It kinda must be one there.Quote:
Originally Posted by e8wing
First, congratulations on beating that cancer illness. That's truly awesome!
I just put my repaired tank in yesterday. My repair guy said to use either strips of an inner tube or some webbing at all the contact points to keep it from squeaking. He thinks they used canvas originally, but it holds moisture and that's no good! I think it looks like cardboard, but it is 50 years old. My straps already had rubber attached to them so I left it. On the top I used pieces of a cheap strap I got at the farm and ranch store. It still works as a strap, it's just 16" shorter than advertised. [emoji4]
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I bought old NOS insulator strips from Vintage Power Wagons about five years ago.
They were made of a thick tar paper.
Which looked to be the same thing that I had taken off of my 67 M715 during it's tear down.
Thanks for the input!!
I have some scrap horse mat that is rubber and about 3/8 of an inch thick. Thinking that would work and secure it with a little seam sealer. This is providing the straps are long enough to connect with it on there. I know about the grounding as someone spot welded a wire to the frame before I got it. It was working well before I took it off.
It was a struggle for me to get the bolts to reach with next to nothing between the tank and straps. 3/8ths of an inch? Good luck to ya! [emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by e8wing
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I would agree...the bolts are hard to get in with thin thin stuff...you may be able to use thicker but you may need to adapt the mount/bolt to get it together.
Another choice of "insulation" material is the tar/fiberglass strips that are used when attaching shingles. It is about a foot long or so and is used to keep rain from beating onto the wood or plywood under the shingles. Also, how about roof felt? It comes in 15 or 30 pound weight. Tar impregnated paper (or whatever).
Have to check out the bolts. Not sure if I can use longer ones. If not maybe remake the brackets. I will be using a transmission jack to put it in place. That should compress the meterial quite a bit. I'm sure with all the input I will get something to work. Thanks
We used some pieces of conveyor belting and some contact cement, IIRC.