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-   -   Wheel Cylinder Conversion (http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9577)

Warthog June 3rd, 2008 11:56 AM

Wheel Cylinder Conversion
 
Hey Jon, do you want to add this to the Manuals Section?

Brake Cylinder Conversion to a
’93 Ford E350 Cylinder
Tru Torque W37262 and W37263 available at most auto parts stores

I know that many of us have done this conversion and fumbled our way thru it.

I have the privilege of being mechanically inclined by learning from my dad many years ago. Wow… it’s been 34 years now, I sure miss him

I read most of the postings about this conversion and understood them but thought others might be confused.

This is not the only way of doing this….your mileage may vary…..


After jacking up the truck, secure the jack stands (everyone should use jack stands) and remove the tire.

Remove the three retaining screws. If they are stubborn (which they all are) try using the biggest screwdriver you have. Hit it with a hammer as you try tightening the screw. I know that sounds strange but by tightening the screw it will help break the rust bond.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../68M715023.jpg

Remove the brake drum. You may have to back off the shoes with the starwheel.
This is what most of us find.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../68M715032.jpg

Inspecting the wheel cylinder you will likely find corrosion. The brakes won’t work if they look like this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...8M715026-1.jpg

Remove all the hardware. I also removed the hub because I was also repacking the bearings.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../68M715033.jpg

This is the mounting plate with the new wheel cylinder before elongating the mounting holes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../68M715036.jpg

This is the mounting plate after elongating the holes. I used a Dremel tool but a round file works just as well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7.../68M715035.jpg

The new wheel cylinder mounted

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ir/m715035.jpg

All the hardware mounted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ir/m715036.jpg

All that is left is reinstalling the drum, applying anti-seize to the retaining screws, adjusting the shoes with the star wheel and bleeding the brakes.

Until next time,
Wart Hog

compexp June 3rd, 2008 12:30 PM

Good write-up - doing that this week - 3rd truck.

chicklin June 3rd, 2008 12:46 PM

Nice write-up and pics. One thing I found was that the stock brake hose/line fittings didn't screw directly into the new cylinders, I had to have an adapter. The existing fitting was too large for the new cylinder. I used NAPA parts 9025 (left) and 9026 (right) which were referenced in another thread. Not a big deal, but the down-side of putting the adapter fittings in is less space to work. I ended up having to bend the brake line a little to get everything to fit.

rboltz June 3rd, 2008 01:18 PM

Mine fit
 
When I did this, the new brake hoses fit the cylinders. I have not heard of them not. Interesting!

Warthog June 3rd, 2008 01:20 PM

I wonder if you brake lines have been replaced. The wheel cylinders I and many others used did not require any additional connectors. Bolted right up.

Wart Hog

brute4c June 3rd, 2008 03:02 PM

Another FANTASTIC job on a tech swap!! I have a set I need to do this too and was gonna do such a write up...if I ever get time...

SWEET!!!

MarknessMonster June 3rd, 2008 03:41 PM

I really like the photographs to go along with the explanation. I've read about this modification, but was hesitant due to the required hole enlargement modification. However, after viewing the pictures, it appears to be very a very minor alteration. Thanks for the thread.

compexp June 3rd, 2008 07:43 PM

Some other hints for removing the drum retaining screws:

I gave up on impact hammers, as I always break/twist the bits.

I lube thoroughly with penetrating oil, then I use a chisel and a hammer to try and turn the screw.

If that doesn't work on it's own, I take a drill and a 3/8" bit and drill into the center of the screw. After I make a hole approx 3/8" deep, I use the chisel again. By removing the material in the center of the screw, it allows the remainder to flex and a few whacks with the chisel and they turn out.

Successful 9 out of 9 on this truck.

My brake lines screwed right in as well.

vacca rabite June 3rd, 2008 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wart Hog (Post 82165)

Brake Cylinder Conversion to a
’93 Ford E350 Cylinder
Tru Torque W37262 and W37263 available at most auto parts stores

Okay, so I get the right stuff....

I want 2 each of the W37262 and W37263 parts, right?

Which goes on the front, and which goes on the back?

If I want to drive my truck on my B-day, I need to get my butt in gear and get my brakes done.

Zach

chicklin June 3rd, 2008 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wart Hog (Post 82184)
I wonder if you brake lines have been replaced. The wheel cylinders I and many others used did not require any additional connectors. Bolted right up.

Wart Hog

Thought about that, but I replaced the left-rear which connects to a hard line that appeared original and I replaced the right-front including an NOS brake hose from Memphis. The NOS hose had the same size fitting as the left-rear hard line (and the original right-front hose) and did not directly fit the NAPA 9026 cylinder.


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