Holley 4bl Carb, AMC 360 - Carb rebuild time?

Painted the truck last weekend with a temporary rattle-can job. Not bad for $30 of paint. Drove it yesterday afternoon in the 100deg heat and ran like a champ.

This morning, went to start it to take it to work and it wouldn't catch. Popped the hood and saw fuel pooling on top of the intake under the carb. Pulled the air filter off and fuel was just pouring into carb. Tried to turn it over once more and the engine wouldn't rotate anymore.

My guess is that diaphram in the accelerator pump is toast and the electric fuel pump was just pushing fuel into the carb un-regulated. Now I think I have a cylinder full of fuel under compression and it's too much for the starter to overcome.

Obviously, I think a rebuild if in order. Any suggestions on other possible problems resulting from the fuel being dumped into the intake like that?

You think you hydrolocked the motor?? Yeah alot of bad stuff can happen from that---not good--tends to bend all kinds of stuff.

As far as the holley--either

a-take it off and smash it with a hammer--replace with edelbrock carb (which is what I would do)

or

b-A standard Holley carb has needle and seats that are removable at either float bowl. Release the locknut and screw out the needle assembly. Make sure its clean and make sure the needle moves freely. You can also put a pick through the hole and see if the float is free, if not the bowl needs to come off (get new gaskets first). If the float is free, screw the seat assembly back in where it was. Remove the sight plug on the side, turn on the fuel pump, and adjust the needle assembly up or down until the fuel just dribbles from the check plug hole. Then lock it down with the lock nut.

Had Holley carbs overflow right out of the box---

what carb # are you using?
if it hydrolocked, chances are that fuel has went by the rings and down in the oil diluting it which you can usually smell on the dipstick. pull the plugs and see if itll turn over and expel the gas out the plug holes and clean or replace fouled plugs. I have a 3310 holley on my 725 which I built about 6 or more years ago and havent had to work on it until some moron sabotaged my secondary linkage at the mud run

bought a rebuild kit, and spent a few hours replacing components. Engine turned over fine after sitting 8 hours, so I'm not nearly as concerned about hydro-lock.

I appear to have two leaks now at the carb. One seems to be from around the diahpram which wasn't a part in the rebuild kit. The other appears to be at the primary fuel connection. Engine still wouldn't catch so it looks like I will in fact be going the Edelbrock route.

Freakin holleys can be tempermental besterds---Had one on my 69 camero that never gave me any problems. Truck avenger on my CJ same. But the one I had on my nova leaked all time--the one i had on my 715 overflowed and took a ton of dinkin with before I finally said enough and put on a Edelbrock.

Replaced a Rochester about a year ago with a Edelbrock 600 CFM on a SBC , was a good swap. Carb is more responsive from off idle and was a lot better during the winter months.

I will second the Edelbrock suggestion. Great all around performance. A Holley of the same size will out perform an Edelbrock has been my experience with wide open throttle running. The other 99.4% of the time though the Edelbrock will make you more happy.

I'm not trying to step on your post, but have you thought about going to fuel injection?

Well! I was going to go to a Holly. My Edelbrock has always had to be primed if the jeep sat for more than a week or so. I found that the construction port plugs on the bottom were leaking all of the fuel out of the bowl. I have tried two different products and have only slowed it down. I must have got a lemon from them. I have a Motorcraft carb on the other jeep and now its doing the same thing. If I knew more about fuel injection I would try to install that on both jeeps.

Good luck on your rebuild.

EFI is the best if you can afford it and if you want to learn how to make it work.