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I've seen hard top install "step by step instructions" referenced a few times in old threads but can't find it using search option here (keywords??!?!).
I recently purchased a hard top from Boyce Equipment but received zero directions or hardware specifications etc.
If curious it came in primer gray with sliding rear window for $1,303.00 to Denver trucking terminal.
Thanks
Ryan
First place I would look is in the Online Maintenance Manuals link at the top of the page in the header. Or you might just have to call Boyce and see if they can send you something as their top might not install exactly like the OEM hard top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan
Thanks Beast.
The artic top found in the original manuals, although 2 pieces, gave me at least some idea of what is involved. Zero response from Boyce so far. If they respond I will share the details here.
If they don't respond I will tackle it on my own and document the process.
Did your truck come with a Boyce top? Maybe you could post some shots of the installed top?
Copied and pasted from Boyce Equipment:
The only trick to installing one of the top is that you have to remove the C Channel along the windshield frame. You can remove it by taking a Chisel and popping off the spot welds.
Then the top will cap over the windshield frame . And the we normally just drill and pop rivet to the wind shield frame. And inside the cab we drill and pop rivet or use Screw and Nut along the back of the cab .
Once you have it on the truck. You can close the doors to see how deep to pop rivet the Aluminum trim to the top. The trim need to be cut to fit the top and back of the window opening. And you can cut a 45 degree cut in the corner where they meet to make them look nice then apply the weather strip .
I would use a spot weld cutter to remove the channel as carefully as possible, someone will need it or if the truck needs to go back original.
Definitely use a spot weld cutter. Using a chisel will distort the living heck out of the metal under the channel. I use them frequently and have started to use a Blair cutter. They are very high quality and come in a small blow molded case with three cutters, a shank, and an extra center pin. Sharpen your punch to needle sharp when center punching. Removing the paint will really reveal the spot welds as will a light shown from the side.
If you can please show lots of pictures. I have considered making a new metal top. It would be cool to see what you have.
Plan to photo document the entire process, may be a week or two before I start as the truck doesn't fit in the garage and its cold up here at 8,500 feet.
Interesting one of the sellers on Ebay for the Blair cutters shows working on the inside of a M715 cab.
I see a lot of them for sale on Amazon, can you recommend a specific model/manufacturer?
The brand is Blair.
This style is better for removing most of the center inside the cut. In your case you will be sanding or carefully grinding off the center "hub" for the lack of better words. So this one would serve you well. I prefer this cutter to the one below. I have both.
https://www.amazon.com/Blair-11096-C...73754471&psc=1
When I am replacing the same panel back in place later, this style leaves a more pronounced center "hub" to help align the original panel back. Leaving most of the metal in the center also is easier to fill the narrow cut with a weld.
This type skips more. The arbor is not shown. Sharpen the center punch to a very sharp point and leave a healthy anchor point. For both types. When cutting come at the metal straight on. When you get a light puff of rust dust, stop and move on. You can always cut more later. Back filling an over cut is a pain. I also use a panel cutter which looks like a long flat piece of strap steel. They are hardened and very sharp on the end on two edges. Paramount for easing the panels apart and cutting the remains of the spot weld. You tap them with a hammer. They kind of go hand in hand with the spot weld cutters.
http://shop.blairequipment.com/Produ...CABEgLJivD_BwE
The panel cutter. I have this exact one. It is years old and has survived hundreds of strikes. I cut apart an entire wagoneer with this tool. And welded it all back together. It is still sharp.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTO-BODY-P...-/274439416282
If you can avoid amazon do it. I just pulled the first good picture I could find. They have become infamous for well done counterfeits. Ebay also but if then seller is a body shop, or a tool store, than you are probably good to go.
Happy cutting.
Hope this helps.