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Spark plugs Need help
I broke a spark plug off and then are put rusted and, my dad said we should replace them but they're really hard to find. my dad was wondering if you could just use normal sparkplug and wire but keep the same Distributor. I want to keep it all original is their place I can buy the waterproof spark plugs.
Ps Im the highschool student who is working on a 1968 jeep 1- 1/4 ton M-715 truck.
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I've heard that vintage power wagons ( I think? Please correct me if I'm wrong) bought a few tractor trailer loads of m715 parts a little while back. I haven't called them for anything but I would try them. Maybe Memphis equipment also?
A few years back I went through the same thing and got a set of correct plugs and wires. I have since swapped to a 350 but still have the original motor.
While I don't really want to split it up, if your unable to track down the right parts let me know and I may be willing to sell you my set. I just need to think it through a little more before I commit to that.
Good luck, I was close to your age when I got my truck. It will be a life long love affair with it so be prepared!!
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There is some very good advice on the proper spark plugs for the M715 trucks in this thread here; http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=26295 From there, a few searches on ebay or with several of the military vehicle vendors should find you a set to keep it original and waterproof. Just be aware that since these are getting harder to find since supply is drying up that the price has risen quite a bit on them.
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To use the stock distributor with non military plugs, you not only need new wires but also you need special ends for them and a way to hold them in the cap. I did this for a couple years...it can work but its not as reliable as I would have liked.
Let me see if I can find an old write up for you...
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Here is the method I did:
What I have done is to take 7MM solid core ignition wire...buy about 15 feet from a lawn mower repair shop...they should have the correct spark plug ends you need as well as the ends for the cap end of the wire...that end is a little brass deal that, when laid out flat, has a round flat middle with a little spike sticking up...this part goes into the end of the wire and the spike into the core...and there is a rectangular tab on 2 sides of the circle that get folded up the sides of the wire and have little spikes on them to grip into the insulation on the sides of the wire. Then I bought some boots for the 2 ends and put it together with civvy plugs. When inserting the wires into the cap end, through the mil cover, you have to be careful to put them in all the way to the bottom but not push to hard as you can crack/break part of the terminal tower that the wire goes down through...I did it on a brand new cap once...sucked...
The wires would occasionally vibrate to where one wouldnt be all the way down in the cap and making good contact...so dead cylinder...if you figure a better way to keep them in the cap, it would be a good solution.
Civvy plug is an autolite #275 or equivalent.
Doug posted this a long time back...might be a better idea...
I did convert a different truck to stock wires myself. The silicone rubber inside the braided metal is flared out on the ends to hold it in the fitting. Pull this out so you can cut it off. Remove the entire length of plug wire from the wire braided cover. Take the fitting end for the spark plug side and remove it completely. Now insert the end of a new wire and fish it thru to the distributor end of the wire braided cover. Take the distributor end off your old wire, remove the spring on the end leaving it connected to a 1/2" section of the old solid wire. Stab that section of solid wire in the end of the new wire along side the carbon filament. Apply a small amount of rtv to secure the new wire in the wire braided cover in the appropriate position so that it simulates the length of the original. allow to dry then assemble. It is still working good on my trail rig after two years service.
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I think the fire service booklet in the 'library' has a description of what they did to change over, too. I image it was decently reliable for them to have put it in the book. I do not know if anyone has actually tried it in modern times. [emoji4]
As far as removing the plugs goes, I was able to find a regular deep well socket that went far enough over the plug to get a good enough grip and just used that. It kind of made my day.
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M725 Spark Plugs
I am in the process of rebuilding and would like to replace the old plugs for some new ones, can't seem to find them anywhere. Autolite 2344. I did call one place and they said the Champion RML12 are spec'd the same? Anyone have any recommendations?