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amphi :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by amphi on May 12, 2006, 6:25pm
Tim,
Bring the boards by here on your way home--- we can stack em' --- run the saw-mill over em' and make them all at once with one ruff-cut pass for each dimension.
The mill is set up and ready to rock. Cutting cedar tomorrow wanna' help?
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marknessmonster :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by marknessmonster on May 12, 2006, 6:33pm
Quote: <TABLE class=bordercolor cellSpacing=1 width="90%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%"><TABLE class=quote cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%">My uncle an old farmer who has used oak lumber and posts cut on his property,said to me when we were bs'ing about white oak versus red oak ,when i said "I hear white oak lasts longer than red" he said "yeaaah about ten minutes".</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
The wise uncle is absolutely correct. It's not like I'm talking about the difference between Douglas fir and Cedar. I was just making an observation in hopes of discovering what species of oak was the factory original.
Anybody know?
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k8icu :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by k8icu on May 12, 2006, 8:38pm
The factory species was oak....:) I could be wrong but I don't think they made preference on white or red. Just that it was oak. I've seen both on some troop seats and tailer racks that I've worked on in the pass. Tim you have to paint the boards OD Green It in the regs....:)
I think the splice is because the boards were made in running lengths of 20-25 feet or so and then cut to length as needed. Therefor there are splices in them.
I think it would be cool to get some of the new fiberglass boards that they are using now. I have also wondered how composit materials would work.
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binfordm715 :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by binfordm715 on May 12, 2006, 10:13pm
Boy, you two need to quit posting back-to-back. Your Avatar is confusing me!
You know, I think stained oak would look fantastic! Paint them green?! So sad. Well, it's not going to be completely stock anyway. So a nice walnut stain will do nicely! Even if it means I'm forever stuck on the Modified Board!
Amphi, how about you just run that mill on up here and show me how it works! Next weekend I'll be cutting some trees around here, and everything.....
So, the finished measurements of the boards I'm looing for will be 87.0" long, 3.0" wide and 0.75" thick. Is that right?
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marknessmonster :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by marknessmonster on May 13, 2006, 5:40am
Copy cat on the avatar!
I like the idea of stained wood and was considering the same for mine. Actually, I am also likely to stray from specs on the dimensions since I don't have the correct hardware anyway.
I think you are on a better path Tim, by sizing the wood to factory specs. You never know when you might feel the urge to go "restoration" and then you'd just have to paint over the stain. Also, if you ever sell, a larger pool of buyers would appreciate the correct parts.
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brute4c :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by brute4c on May 13, 2006, 6:30am
My spliced troop seats have a sawtooth edge where the boards join...will have to take a pic...later though...we are heading out for the day.
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beast :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by beast on May 13, 2006, 8:20am
Quote: <TABLE class=bordercolor cellSpacing=1 width="90%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%"><TABLE class=quote cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=2 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%">You know, I think stained oak would look fantastic! Paint them green?! So sad. Well, it's not going to be completely stock anyway. So a nice walnut stain will do nicely! Even if it means I'm forever stuck on the Modified Board! </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I left mine stained clear when I first finished my 715 because I like the little bit of color change on the vehicle.
http://www.davidallenracing.com/DSC03386.jpg
But once I finished the deuce, I didn't feel like spending that much money to build the troop seats out of oak, so I used pine and knew I was going to paint them green. Once I did that I like the green so much that I pulled the troop seats off the 715 and sprayed them 24087 green also.
http://www.davidallenracing.com/f131ee2f.jpeg
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binfordm715 :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by binfordm715 on May 13, 2006, 10:00am
I have nothing against the green painted wood. Don't get me wrong. My thinking is exactly like Dave's. I did my pick-maddock handle with walnut stain and will do my axe and shovel handles that way as well. Thought I'd do the troop seats in stain as well. And like Madness wrote (and Dave did), I can always paint over them if I want. Kind of hard to stain over the paint though!
I'm not in any great hurry with this, so any time you can get a pick to me would be great. Perhaps a side shot so I can pick the right router bit for the rounded edges too.
I will pick up as much of this wood as I can. So I should be able to make up a few sets if anyone needs them.
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devildog :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by devildog on May 13, 2006, 12:45pm
Steel fasteners in contact with oak and some moisture will turn the oak black around the fasteners. Stainless or bronze fasten ers may be a better choice if you are leaving them natural or stained.
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texan :
Re: Troop seat wood specs
Post by texan on May 13, 2006, 3:55pm
Binford, I'll send you a sample of an original slat if you want one. I'm going to copy the original profile on mine. Let me know and PM me your mailing address.
Don