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-   -   master cylinder Q. (http://www.m715zone.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2072)

kaiserkoski April 25th, 2004 04:55 PM

NOS Pass. Door
my rear pass-side wheel cylinder is leaking and i went to check the fluid but the master c. is like nothing i have ever seen. how do i put fluid in it and how do i know haw much to add??

brute4c April 26th, 2004 08:35 AM

Using a crescent wrench, unscrew the top of the master...disconnecting any vent line connection first of course, then fill till its up to the top so that when you put the top back on, none spills out, just below the lip basically, and you'll be fine.
Due to the nature of brake fluid, except DOT5, absorping water/humidity, the fluid in there may be pretty gunky if it hasnt been flushed in the last year or 2...might be a good time to do that...manuals recommend every 2 years, completely flush all lines...if you reach in the bottom of the master with your finger and find sludge/sandy stuff, you know it needs it bad.

law April 26th, 2004 12:18 PM

Yes,as bute4c said. The cap is rather large - about the size of a half dollar. I had never seen a set-up like it before either. It took me a little while thinking about the job before I decided to remove the cap - I had first contemplated trying to add fluid through the vent line.

Moisture and brake fluid mix very well. If you have not reworked your brakes, I would suggest you buy new wheel cyclinders or at least wheel cyclinder repair kits and go through the brake system before you get it on the road. My truck's brakes were in terrible shape when I purchased it - full of water, dirt and rust. I also replaced the metal brake lines due to corrosion. If I had know its condition at the time, I never would have taken it on the road.

kaiserkoski April 26th, 2004 07:34 PM

thanks , i just didnt wont to jump into it and over fill it or mess anything up. can i get wheel cylinders at any local parts store or are they special order? when i bought the truck it soposedly had fairly new brakes on it, when i took the rear drums off the pads had a lot of meat left on them. should i just replace the cylinder or every thing??

LuckyPabst April 26th, 2004 07:47 PM

I suggest replacing all the cylinders if one was leaking. In the trailer shop we'd never replace one without replacing opposite cylinder (still don't know why).

Anyhow, look in the parts list under online manuals and you'll find a number for an Econoline wheel cylinder that works great and is only about 15 bucks a piece.

Also if the master cylinder is remotely questionable, drop in a later style dual circuit master for added safety, about 35 bucks.


k8icu April 26th, 2004 08:36 PM

IF one is going the other can't be far behind is the thinking on replacing both or all at the same time....
The cap on the MC is only suppose to be tighten to hand tight. Do not over tighten it. Its a mill standard thing...

brute4c April 27th, 2004 07:55 AM

Good point, yeah its a no torque deal...fingers only!!

kaiserkoski April 27th, 2004 07:40 PM

glad im working so much or i would have alwready f'cked that up, thanks for the heads up..

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