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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
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    That would make sense to me Don. The only wires coming into the ignitor are the red and black from the ignition switch lead. Also Don, I was wrong when I said that Boycee Equipment distributor cap didn't look correct. I totally forgot that the cap is enclosed and screwed into the ignitor cover. My apologies. I'll go back to work on my truck this weekend I hope. Maybe I'll get lucky and the 2nd new coil will be the answer to my problem. Thanks again.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
    the only wires coming into the ignitor are the red and black from the ignition switch lead.
    two??????
    SFC, HQ,129th Sig Co, PAARNG, Vietnam Era

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rboltz View Post
    two??????
    I was wondering the same. That connector only has one wire in the center.

  4. #4
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    Sorry, I meant the wires that are up in the ignitor going to the coil. At any rate, can I take a reading off the coil terminals with the switch on to see if I get 24v? Has anyone ever had to replace the wire from the switch to the ignitor?
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
    Sorry, I meant the wires that are up in the ignitor going to the coil. At any rate, can I take a reading off the coil terminals with the switch on to see if I get 24v? Has anyone ever had to replace the wire from the switch to the ignitor?
    With the switch "ON", you should read 24 Volts on the left terminal, + of the coil.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
    Has anyone ever had to replace the wire from the switch to the ignitor?
    JIMMIE M715 had to repair the internal power wire in his distributor, as it was hanging on buy a few strands near the capacitor/ RF filter located in the connector receptacle.

    If it was me, I would just remove the ignitor from the engine, and give it a complete tear down for good inspection.
    Much, much easier to pull the ingitor and take to the work bench.

    I can't remember reading whether you replaced the cap and rotor during a recent tune up.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    No Dan, I have not replaced the cap and rotor. The wire leading from the ignition switch through the firewall and to the ignitor look good as far as I can see. If that wire was to need replacing, what type of wire would it be replaced with? Or does a military parts supply house carry things like that?
    My thoughts here, are to put in the new coil and see if this was the problem. If the wire going into the capacitor receptacle was bad/frayed, wouldn't that effect the 24v reading you should be getting at the coil?
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by militarypotts View Post
    My thoughts here, are to put in the new coil and see if this was the problem. If the wire going into the capacitor receptacle was bad/frayed, wouldn't that effect the 24v reading you should be getting at the coil?
    It might. Just be sure to wiggle the wire around while testing if you can, since your trouble came and went.

    No special wire needed inside, just match the gauge.

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