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Thread: Dipstick

  1. #1

    Default Dipstick

    I keep being brought back to oil related problems, and I'm wondering if I have a modified gauge, indicator, oil, engine, manual... dipstick.
    The reason for this is that if I fill the crankcase to the full line, the engine will throw out a quart somehow. The oil isn't going anywhere else, not in coolant, no smoke screen, not noticeable on the ground, but the oil pump/front pan seal area is wet and spreading on the left side especially. I tweaked the oil pump bolts just a touch, and snugged the oil pan bolts back down (up?).
    So I'm suspicious of this dipstick. It's two pieces of different thicknesses of metal riveted together just inside of the stop.
    Does anyone have a source for a replacement? Pictures of the correct one? I can't find even a picture anywhere. Or measurements. If you have the correct measurements from the stop to the end, and to the full mark I could at least know if I'm putting in too much oil.

    Thanks to all once again!
    Last edited by TJinSD; July 8th, 2019 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Left out: Surplus Jeep does have it listed on their site. Doesn't seem to be available. That's all I've found.
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  2. #2

    Default

    I seem to recall an old story where the dip stick was correct, but the dip stick tube wasn't the correct length? Or the tube wasn't put in all the way, so the dip stick would measure low when it really wasn't. Whoever does the measurement, maybe post the tube length as well. My truck doesn't have the 230 or I'd measure both for you- gonz
    Come and take it
    Go work at joann fabrics if you can't shoot a gun

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gonz View Post
    I seem to recall an old story where the dip stick was correct, but the dip stick tube wasn't the correct length? Or the tube wasn't put in all the way, so the dip stick would measure low when it really wasn't. Whoever does the measurement, maybe post the tube length as well. My truck doesn't have the 230 or I'd measure both for you- gonz
    Oh yeah, that's another possibility, but I did find one or two pictures of other engines that looked close to the same as mine, so I'm hoping that's not it. Thanks!

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    If you put 6 quarts in from empty with a new filter, run the truck for a minute to fill the filter well, then check the level...wherever the level is should be the point where full should be marked on a stock 230.
    One way to get the level to a known point...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    TJinSD,
    In your signature it says radiator upgraded to 3 row...stock the M715 is 3 row....
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    TJinSD,
    In your signature it says radiator upgraded to 3 row...stock the M715 is 3 row....
    Is it really?? Then I suppose what I have wasn't original after all. It worked well at 2 rows though. I'll take that out of my signature when I'm back on the computer. Thanks for the info!

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    TJinSD,
    In your signature it says radiator upgraded to 3 row...stock the M715 is 3 row....
    I have to agree, my truck had/has a three row radiator. McCord is the brand I have. I had to have it re-cored for the obvious reason. Runs cool and I put the thermostat back in. (Missing when I got the truck) Temperature rises quickly (Florida) to 180°F and stays there in parades or "high" speed (50 MPH ).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Yep...the factory one is the mccord...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    Yep...the factory one is the mccord...
    I'll take a closer look. Mine is a mccord. I searched but wasn't able to find anything with the number that's on it. Now, thinking back to what the radiator guy said, he told me the core was listed in his book. I wasn't sure if he meant the mccord number, m715, Jeep or what. But I told him to put a 3 row in it if he could. Maybe he looked up m715 and ordered a replacement core, which was 3 row. I gave him what I thought was a factory 2 row, got a three row back. Looked like an upgrade to me!

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

    Default

    I can tell you that the guy here in Jacksonville, FL took measurements of the core (original) and called a place in Texas and had a new core made to the measurements. He told me that it would be made out of virgin brass, no recycled Chinese junk. He got it in less than a week. It is perfect.

    I realize that $350 is/was a lot of money. But some things in my mind just need to be right the first time.

    (What comes to mind is the gas tank. I plopped down the bucks for a new stainless steel tank. No worries, no flaking, no clogging, it just works. My time is money and I don't want to be left on the side of the road)

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