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Thread: M715 Hauler / Crawler Build

  1. #11

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    Yeah, this is my first real build so I have to buy and fabricate tools as I need them which can be tough of the pocket book while I'm trying to build the truck too. Looking forward to you starting too, just keep reading here to get a good idea of what direction to go. There are a lot of informative build threads here.

  2. #12

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    I know there are a thousand ways to skin this cat... but here are my current plans:
    Engine mount to frame = hard mount / bolt on
    Engine mount to engine = polyurethane bushings
    Crossmember mounts to frame = weld on WFO spring hangers
    Crossmember to hangers= polyurethane bushings
    Crossmember to Trans/Transfer Case = polyurethane pucks

    Anyone see any reasons not to use poly pucks between the crossmember and Trans/Transfer Case in this application?

    I may need to notch the crossmember to clear the driveshaft but I'm trying to avoid that.


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Litchfield Illinois
    Posts
    596

    Default

    If looking for a transfer case and transmission mount, you might look at Ryanroo's build. Now, that being said, he had access to some tools most of us don't. As for mine, I did notch the front mount for the drive shaft, but I have an automatic transmission which is longer.

    I like the computer program. It is nice to see things in that way before building it.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    1,694

    Default

    I would probably poly mount them too. I like your design
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  5. #15

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    Id be interested in a copy of the solidworks frame file when its completely accurate if at all possible.

    Great build by the way

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Greenwood, Indiana
    Posts
    1,694

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gotzskillz View Post
    Id be interested in a copy of the solidworks frame file when its completely accurate if at all possible.

    Great build by the way

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

    X2


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Thanks, George
    Joshua 24:15

  7. #17

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    Thanks for the input guys. I'll probably have the model of the frame done in the next couple of weeks and would be happy to share. I'll keep you posted.

    Got some work done over the weekend.

    Scraped, simple greened, wire wheeled, degreased and pressure washed the trans and transfercase. Pulled the cab and set it in the bed… I’m sure the neighbors love seeing a busted truck cab floating above the fence line. Cut off the stock motor mounts and passenger side crossmember mount, then wire wheeled the frame rails. Married up the drive train and set it in. Dropped the cab and body work back on. Still have to work out some details before the final placement, but everything looks pretty good.















  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield CT
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Maybe move it back a bit? Help with the shifter under the dash and looks like there is plenty of room with distributor at firewall? Good progress!
    Is that real money?

  9. #19

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    You found a solid truck to start with, have to love the lack of rust out west
    Many of the truck I looked at in NY you could look at the road through the floor of the cab

    Looking good so far, keep up the good work!
    - Luke
    1968 M715 the Monolith

  10. #20

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    I moved it back and down after these pictures and still cant shift into 1st and 3rd. I may need to notch the dash to clear. The only thing holding me up from going back more is the passenger side exhaust manifold. I will probably need to buy the cheapo (summit / jegs) headers. I was planning to offset the engine to the passenger side to free up some space for the steeringbox and linkage. But that means I can't run the stock heater.

    Yeah, I am loving the lack of rust, no frozen bolts, no patch work ...

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