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Thread: Transmission leak.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    499

    Default

    Memphis Equipment has one on Ebay currently, auction # 220274979248

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/M715-...spagenameZWDVW

    Also AB Linn has had them in the past, usually the cheapest.

  2. #12

    Default

    Thanks Hiker, I'll call Memphis tomorrow.

  3. #13

    Default

    Got my truck back together this afternoon, what a chore! Ran out of time, just need to refill it with gear oil and test drive. At least everything is clean under there now.
    Thanks for everyones help and suggestions. Thought I would post a picture.
    [img=http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/3931/m715eeh9.th.jpg]

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    499

    Default

    Nice looking truck!!

  5. #15
    Jester Guest

    Default

    I get to do this project this weekend to seal up the bolts. Thought it was the rear seal but discovered that its not leaking - must be the bolts.

    If you unbolt the crossmember and the trans mount, will the crossmember just slide back? Enough to get to the bolts?

    Txs

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    8 bolts hold the transmission crossmember on. Undo them and attack the crossmember with a BFH once you support the transmission. Just watch the clearance for the front drive shaft if you go too far.

    However, I think you are making this harder than it should be. A combination wrench should let you get to each and every bolt with some creative arm positioning. I just looked at 2 of the T98's sitting in my class and I am pretty sure you don't need to move stuff out of the way to get to the rear seal housing.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  7. #17
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    8 bolts hold the transmission crossmember on. Undo them and attack the crossmember with a BFH once you support the transmission. Just watch the clearance for the front drive shaft if you go too far.

    However, I think you are making this harder than it should be. A combination wrench should let you get to each and every bolt with some creative arm positioning. I just looked at 2 of the T98's sitting in my class and I am pretty sure you don't need to move stuff out of the way to get to the rear seal housing.
    Correct, you can get to the seal housing but not the mounting bolts (#7 in the diagram). Those are what I think is leaking.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    And those bolts love to leak...

    Check the threads to see if they have been flattened or widened over the years...replace if they dont look up to snuff.

    Use some threadlocker on them and snug them up good...they love to work loose.

  9. #19
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Pulled the crossmember and trans mount. The bolts were tight but looked like the lower was leaking. Reassembled with a little sealant.

    Kinda of a pain but worth it.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SW New Hampshire
    Posts
    26

    Default Drilling holes in the cross-member

    The Quirks manual says to periodically tighten the rear transmission bolts, however, it's not that simple, and I found that the rear passenger side bolt goes through into the oil, and the bolt had weakened threads and had to be replaced, not just tightened. My question/recommendation would be to drill holes into the cross member to allow easy access to the two bolts for removal of the bolts without disassembly of the support and cross-member. I think the cross-member is strong enough with two holes to access the tranny bolts. Has anyone tried this? Recommendations?

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