2k? *gulp*
2k? *gulp*
Jonnie
I ran a 2415 holley on a civvy 230 2 bbl intake till i sold it...worked great. The factory also used the 350 cfm 2300 holley carb on the civvy 230. They make a 500 cfm 2300 holley but that is too big...unless you are looking to drown the thing...
Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.
Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!
We ran the Holley 2300 500 CFM on our stock car back in the 80s. It was a Chevrolet 230 CID, inline 6. But... it had a long duration, high lift cam so it was able to handle the induction. We also had headers and a gutted intake manifold.
All that being said, is their a long duration/high lift cam for the Jeep Tornado 230 CID? No, just asking, don't want one...
No cam choices that i have ever heard of...civvy and mil are the same grind. The argentine one probably had better if you are really heart set on it...
The chebby 230 had intake manifold carb mounting holes big enough for the 500 cfm carb....i dont tnink the jeep 230 even has that, though i know i measured once the outlet ports on the 230 jeep manifold and figured the cross sectional area and then the cfm flow and it came out just above 350 cfm...like 362 or so...so anything bigger would be a waste in my book...
Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.
Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!
I totally agree.
I have no intention to "hot rod" a Jeep 230. If for no other reason, it is a long stroke engine (torque) and to do too much to it would make it throw itself apart.
We used the Chevrolet 230 because of the crank balance offsets but a 250 would be more HP. Now some guys used the 292. It was a screamer but they all ultimately threw themselves apart.
I once hopped up a Chrysler 225 slant six in a Dodge Dart. Offenhauser 4bbl intake, hooker headers, 2.5" exhaust all the way to the back of the car, duals of course. The carb was a Holley 4160, about 400 CFM. It was a sleeper, street tires, Chrysler 4-speed, 8.75 rear but street gears, 3:23. I also had a Racer Brown Purple Stripe solid cam, basically a hemi grind. But I also took .055 off of the head and .050 off of the block, used a steel shim headgasket. (High Test Gas Only!)
Speaking of the head, I put '66 Buick GS 400 valves in the head, 360 MoPar valve springs and opened up the ports to match the valves, intake ports and header ports. The head diameter of the valves were identical to a Chrysler 318. But I could not use Chrysler valves because the stems were too long. The TRW engine parts catalog brought it all together since sizes of everything was there.
The car had Air Conditioning. It would freeze your arse out (oh yeah, R12 freon). But the duration of the cam made it lope a lot. If you cut on the AC at idle, it would kill the engine because of the overlap in the cam.
Lot of fun and somewhere, I have B/W pictures of putting that engine together.
(Hope I didn't hijack this thread!)
Sounds kind of like the factory hyper pack 6...real sleeper material...heck even a 2 bbl and mild cam wakes up a 225 over the stock 1bbls...
Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.
Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!
Gronk Performance is selling a two barrel Mastercraft 2100 conversion for the 6-230, and lucky me, I live about 40 minutes from Gronk, so I bought one ($315 delivered) and he came over and put it on for me last weekend ($100). Gronk is awesome, and the carb made my 230 come alive. I am very happy so far, as the truck came from Iowa, and jetted for that elevation, and I am here in Colorado Springs, so upgrading from the 1920 to the 2100, and jetting properly obviously helped!
You can find this mod on ebay here, and Gronk was great to work with. After I get my windshield back from my glass guy, I will be driving it more, and will report back to you all here.
Update: So I wanted to engine to look stock even though I have a MC2100 carb. The air cleaner needs modification to fit on top of the new two barrel carb. Lucky for us, the indentation on the bottom of the stock air cleaner is just a little larger than 5 1/8", so you can take a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade and zip out that center part, leaving a little lip, and then RTV in the 5 1/8" ring for the new carb (stolen from a cheapie Spectre air cleaner). Drill a hole in the lid (spin it to find dead center, mark with sharpie), and with the exception of a wing nut on the top of the lid it looks stock and hides the two barrel carb. Pretty cool. Now I have to find a crankcase breather filter and a union so that the crankcase and the fuel line breather can get clean air, but everything else plugs up as it did before.
Last edited by ColoradoSpringsRob; February 5th, 2019 at 04:47 PM.
You bet. Will post photos this week.
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