Brake drum screws

[fishtail]

Is there a hint on how to get the three brake drum screws out after sitting for a few years? I have a sticking (stuck!) brake on the drivers side rear wheel, and the truck will hardly roll forward even in 4WD. I've sprayed penetrating oil on the screws, even beat on the end of the largest screwdriver I could get to fit the slot. I've used the cresent wrench on the end of the screwdriver blade for more leverage.

Any help?????
Scott

[vacca rabite]

I used PB Blaster (penetrating oil) and an impact driver.
Make sure you give the penetrating oil time to work before you use the impact driver.

Zach

[kwai]

The impact driver is the key to the operation. As zach said, use pb blaster and then wallop them with the impact driver. Make sure the impact driver bit is a good tight fit.

[Jester]

I had several that were stuck - impact driver would not budge them. Drilled a small hole in the center - all the way thru - used the impact then and they came out.

[stranman]

I heated mine up really good, splashed some water on them and then they came out.

[Warthog]

An old mechanic thought me a trick many years ago. If you don't have an impact driver, take the biggest screw driver you have, set it in the slot, and as you hit it with a BFH, twist the screw driver like you are tightening the screw. (this also applies to impact drivers)

The way a screw or bolt has its streignth is on the thread edge facing the head. This edge may get rusted and won't budge. By tightening the screw/bolt, it will break the rust bond and you should be able to remove the screw. I know it doesn't make sense to tighten a screw to remove it but it does work.

This is exactly how my M715 brakes worked out. The drum screws had not been removed for many, many years. My 14" flat head screw driver and a 1lb sledge hammer was all that was required.

Check this out.

Wheel Cylinder Conversion

[Binford]

I know it doesn't make sense to tighten a screw to remove it but it does work.

Of course, once it's broke loose, you reverse direction on the screw to get it out!

I moved this to the Stock Tech forum. It's a better fit over here.

[vacca rabite]

I also made sure I put some hi-temp anti seize on the screws before I put them back on. I always get scared that one of them is going to re-rust in place and break on extraction.

Zach

[brute4c]

If worse comes to worst....

Drill a 1/4 inch hole clear through the screw and then drill with a 3/8ths bit...when you get to the bottom of the chafer on the screw head, the head will shear off. Do that to the 3 screws and the drum is off.
Grab the stub from the back with a pair of vice grips and turn...no sweat.

NOTE: It is very important to keep the drums indexed to the hubs as they are. Once you get the first screw out, asho of spray paint into the hole will mark the drum and the screw hole that matches that location.

[compexp]

I usually do the impact driver/lube first - then when that doesn't work, I just drill the center of the screw most of the way out, then use a screwdriver and hammer to spin the bolt.

Once you take the center of the bolt head out, there isn't much holding force on the outer rim to keep the screw in place.

I replace all the old ones with new hex head bolts from Ace Hardware - AND put anti-seize on them!