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Thread: Steering Joint Swap

  1. #1
    Jester Guest

    Question Steering Joint Swap

    Has anyone replaced the tulip shaped socket on the steering shaft with a normal u-joint?

    Picture from Warthog's thread about rebuilding it.



    Rather than rebuilding it, I would like to just replace it.

  2. #2

    Default

    I'm not sure on these units, but the vehicles that I've worked on with a similar style steering joint you can only rebuild it. The alternative is to replace the whole shaft and joint assembly with a new one. Hopefully someone else will have some better info on it.

  3. #3

    Default

    Actually spicer offers splined yokes to match most spline counts, and the best theing about the spicer parts are the replacable u joints. If you need help with part numbers, give me the spline count, and measure the diameter of the splines with a caliper.
    "Thanks for supporting your local 4 wheel drive shops"

  4. #4
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BigWheelBob View Post
    Actually spicer offers splined yokes to match most spline counts, and the best theing about the spicer parts are the replacable u joints. If you need help with part numbers, give me the spline count, and measure the diameter of the splines with a caliper.
    No splines on the one side. Just two "pins". My only guess on replacement is cutting it at the pins then welding/pinning a u-joint on.

  5. #5

    Default

    If you plan on wheeling the truck, be sure to put something back in that will telescope like that part does. Having a solid shaft will pull and push on the column and mess up the lower bearing in the process. There is also a possiblilty of floor pan cracking depending on how tight your column is bolted down. You need some provision for the flexing.
    Liz, covid, murdered 10/19/21

  6. #6
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps View Post
    If you plan on wheeling the truck, be sure to put something back in that will telescope like that part does. Having a solid shaft will pull and push on the column and mess up the lower bearing in the process. There is also a possiblilty of floor pan cracking depending on how tight your column is bolted down. You need some provision for the flexing.
    Good call. Did not think of that

  7. #7

    Default

    somewhere in my build thread is how i set mine up. has weld on u-joints and a new shaft. no flex room, but i will deal with that if it proves an issue

    Ryan
    67 #18820 mostly stock...

  8. #8
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ryanroo View Post
    somewhere in my build thread is how i set mine up. has weld on u-joints and a new shaft. no flex room, but i will deal with that if it proves an issue

    Ryan
    Dang Ryan - been thru your thread 100 times. Should have known there would be a pic in there somewhere

  9. #9
    Jester Guest

    Default

    Here it is...



    How did you connect on the column side? Weld it?

  10. #10

    Default

    yeah, i wrapped a cold water soaked rag around the shaft and welded in three stiches to try and keep the shaft from heating up to much and melting anything farther up the column. i didn't take it apart so i really didn't know what was up there that i could ruin and didn't want to risk it.

    the u joints i used where from Sweet Mfg. in Kalamazoo MI. one was a 3/4" blank hole on bothe sides, and the othere was blank on one side and had the slines and set screw for the steering box. i am not sure what the part numbers are though. i just used 3/4" .156" wall tubing for the shaft

    also my thinking for not using a slip shaft is that they always end up getting sloppy and making noise. the steering shaft in the column has some movement so i am hoping that i will not see any issues.

    Ryan
    67 #18820 mostly stock...

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