mine is twin sticked (not hooked up yet)
anyone used the stock shifters to run the np205?
doest it make one axle
high-neutral-low
and the other reversed
low-neutral-high
since the pivot points are reversed on the shifters?????[/b]
mine is twin sticked (not hooked up yet)
anyone used the stock shifters to run the np205?
doest it make one axle
high-neutral-low
and the other reversed
low-neutral-high
since the pivot points are reversed on the shifters?????[/b]
1967 M-715 (A1)
www.homepage.mac.com/ltalessi
I think I've got it. Just make the shifters pivot the same way. Unless there is some reason they can't, but I can't think why something couldn't be worked out. Last time I looked the shifters just looked like sheet stock levers.... should be able to space them right to be able to shift them independently and identically.
**I heart Bump_r **
Isn't there an interconnect inside the tcase that would prevent it from functioning in 2WD hi, 2WD low, or whatever?
Yes there is a interconnect on the shift rails. You have massage one of the rails with a grinder to get the correct profile. I used the stock M725 shifters my pattern is nearest the dash is high then neutral then low. It's been a while since I've modified the rails but I think it took less than 30 minutes to do the whole deal. Some remove the interlocks all together but that's a real bad idea. You get screwing around you'll leave one axle iin high the other in low and blow the t-case.Originally Posted by over2land
Correct profile for what? Twin sticking it?
And, Blow the tcase? My understanding of twin sticking is that you'd really have to friggin try to get the sticks to go into different ranges.
If you grind one of the shafts to make it a twin stick 205, the interlock will keep it from going low-hi. You can remove the interlock instead of or along with grinding the shafts. That allows the t-case blowing low-hi front-rear combination. I don't have it in front of me, but I know that the FOURWHEELER and 4WHEEL AND OFFROAD web sites have old articles and pictures about it.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
PETE: Let me try to clarify this. There are spring loaded interlock "pills" to keep you from shifting the axles into different ranges from each other. You can remove these and have twin stick powers, or do it right and grind the shafts to allow it. The stock shafts are grooved so as not to allow this in any way, and THAT is why grinding is necessary. This way leaves the interlocks in place, so you can't shift into different ranges, but allows twin sticking superpowers.
You won't blow the case. Jeff's post was talking about removing the interlocks. It's not too hard to shift them funny. KEEP THE INTERLOCKS.
I have the 4w/offroad article here, if you want more info. It might even be on there tech section of the webpage... can't remember. I think it is though.
**I heart Bump_r **
It is.
Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.
6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw
Ah ha. I see now. I also dimly remember reading about that too. Will wonders never cease.
It was something about enlarging a groove or two in the rails to allow the range thing, with the pills in it...
I'll check out the site... but not from here on the dialup.
Sorry to hijack the thread. I'll shut up now that y'all got it through my thick head.
Go to this web site to look at a copy of a magizine article for twin sticking the 205 and leaving the interlock pills in place. http://darkwing.uoregon.edu/~jrice/N...s/image004.jpg
Their are some other websites showing more pictures of this modifications but I can't recall them offhand.
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