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Thread: What have you guys done for modified fuel-fillers?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    369

    Default What have you guys done for modified fuel-fillers?

    I know several folks here have done custom tanks without the stock filler necks. What are you guys using to fill your tanks?

    I started with a CJ-7 tank and filler assembly in the bed. Now I'm looking to move it under the bed, behind the rear axle and I no longer have the stock filler neck either.

    I was thinking about something like this:

    Basically I need a 2" threaded fuel neck then I need to neck that down to a little over 1" (already have the braided stainless hoses rated for fuel). Think like heavy equipment type stuff. Any of your suppliers have anything like this around?
    http://www.boydwelding.com/Images/Parts/velvac_cap.jpg

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRnixYa519M

  2. #2

    Default

    I've been thinking about adding a second tank between the frame rails at the very rear (a la 40Grit) - a Bronco 35 gal (?) fits real nice, for a filler I was going to go with a door in the floor bed that filled almost straight down into the tank. The door so I wouldn't lose any functionality in the bed. If I'm not smart enough to get that right I suppose I will put the filler all the way in the corner by the tailgate.

    $.02

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    369

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BBM715 View Post
    I was going to go with a door in the floor bed that filled almost straight down into the tank. The door so I wouldn't lose any functionality in the bed. If I'm not smart enough to get that right I suppose I will put the filler all the way in the corner by the tailgate.
    I was thinking much the same thing. Any pics of 40 grit's or thoughts on how to do the door? I'm still in the idea stage here and trying to figure out how I want to do it.

  4. #4

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    I am missing the stock filler and the a 30gl Bronco tank was installed were the spare used to go. The PO dropped a fill point into the side of the bed just behind the fender. Unfortunately it has no angle, so you can't really fill with it. Currently I'm stuck using a length of heater hose stuck to the end of a funnel and I use jerry cans to fill it. This method sucks. So I built a replica filler assembly and used a marine deck fill. I'm now in the process of building and mounting a transfer tube from this point to the tank in the back. I won't be able to get much down angle on the assembly, but I'm hoping that if I pump slow it won't overflow. There's some pics in this gallery of what I've got so far, except for the transfer tube: Fuel tank

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    369

    Default

    That looks good Chumley.
    I looked at the deck-fills, but didn't like the need to use a "key" to get them open. I'll probably try to do something similar to yours...

    One question though: what did you use to fab this part from?

  6. #6

    Default

    OK well as far as the "key" on the deck fill type go, I use a piece of aluminum diamond plate. It also doubles as a key chain. That can in the picture is a section of 4" or 4.5" exhaust pipe with an 1/8" top. The angle pieces that I used to mount it to the bed and fender are also 1/8".

  7. #7

    Default

    You should be able to get a cap like you linked two at any big truck parts yard. Pretty common on older dump and straight truck tanks. Any 2" pipe nipple will work to thread it onto.
    This post is closed-captioned for the hearing impaired.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
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    369

    Default

    OK, thanks to Chumley, I think I've gotten this thing licked...

    FYI, the cap can be purchased at Napa, it's a Balkamp 703-1290. It's $26.49 It's a bronze, non-vented cap, 2" NPT thread, with a gasket and retainer chain to hold it in place. I think when I'm done with this it will look as well as BE sufficiently rugged. It'll also solve my fuel-spilling problems.

    The new plan: Take the top, weld in a 2" NPT bung to screw it onto. Attach that to some 3" exhaust tubing I had bent ($30 at local muffler shop), then weld on the CJ filler neck to attach the hoses to. Fab all that into the tube fenders on the bed. More on that as the bed project progresses.



    Last edited by bluesman2a; August 6th, 2009 at 03:45 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Awesome! Keep the pictures coming.

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