Some more pictures ( PVC on HMMWV rims).
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/wheel-1.JPG
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/wheel-2.JPG
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/wheel-4.JPG
Some more pictures ( PVC on HMMWV rims).
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/wheel-1.JPG
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/wheel-2.JPG
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/wheel-4.JPG
yeah, I know the 2pc'ers are beadlocks LOL.. I was just wondering if there is any really big technical advantage to them over the standard deals... Dismounts might be one....
**I heart Bump_r **
Most beadlock wheels only grab the outside edge of the tire and have been known to leak down after a little while. These double beadlock and shoudl save some weight...not that Hammer and his 53's are concerned.
I called Daniel yesterday and he told me like two weeks...and it's already been two weeks that he didn't tell me. You know if something is listed 'ON SHELF' I expect that in three days. I told him that at least he could get the detroits and pans out to me in the mean time. He agreed (yeah...we'll see) and then asked if I have access to a big lathe. I said yes, and he said he's send me a picture of what the hubs need to be machined to look like for the front brake kit. No email...no pic and it was supposed to be a couple of minutes...that was about 15 hours ago. If I do the machining...he best ought understand that I get my core charge AND machining price BACK. I'll keep you guys posted.
Big Blocks RULE!
Advantages are military based. No special equipement is required to mount/dismount the tires. Although some say to break the bead after they are on the 20" setup requires some serious effort.
You maintain the original sealing surfaces.
Most external beadlocks use a big ring and a LOT of bolts to 'clamp' the tire against the lip. But when you torque down the bolts, it will distort the ring, and finding a medium ground for where to stop tightening is a pain.
Some external beadlocks have a ledge so most of the distortion doesn't happen, but this doesn't work perfectly because tires are different. Also the external uses FLAT pieces of metal to secure the bead/tire. These can cut the sidewalls up if they are not chamfered (not usually done).
Where as the internal uses the stock rim and bead to hold the tire with the insert holding it up tight from the inside. Even if it could slip (supposedly the 20" rim itself can hold the bead to an extreme on it's own), it wouldn't damage the tire/bead at all.
Oh yeah, THEY BALANCE out well. External beadlocks are notorious for not balancing out. Where the internal is about the same as a stock rim setup for balance.
Oh, and it still looks street legal
Spicer, I would call him and ride him every day. Most people talk about how GOOD he is at talking his way out of the BS that he gets himself into. Don't let him sweet talk you! Stick to your guns when you call him.
Oh yeah, here are some pictures of the 12.5 x 20 tires for you. These would look VERY nice for the setup you are after!
http://pics.montypics.com/Mudyota/20...6/mvc_027s.jpg
SWEET. Found a local guy that will sell me the tires, used and worn out, but CHEAP. This is perfect for me to test with!
And $30 to $40 each for 16x20 tires isn't too bad He has everything from bald to truly brand new.
How big are th 12.5x20's? forteeeee-what? My 1100x20's are in the 41" range. That Toyota is using regular deuce 'bud' wheels. The ones I have for the project have center set in a little bit so that it wouldn't work as a dually rear wheel. Check the link to look at the tire and wheel I'll be using.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/spi...y+1100x20s.jpg
What do you think of them?
Oh, I emailed Daniel and got him to "resend" (ha,ha) the pics from yesterday. I did get them.
Big Blocks RULE!
42" or 43" I think. Not too sure really. Logic would say 43" though. Pretty much the same as what you have, but much more 'square' in appearance. And a little taller of course.
Ok, next few topics of interest on the rockwells.
New Ujoints with the zerk fitting for greasing them instead of filling the entire knuckle with grease.
Zipper style boots.
And a skid plate under the boot so I don't destroy the boots all the time.
And with the bigger meats, I will keep my options open for the better axles shafts later on as well.
Okay...Why the zerks? Think you'll get more grease INTO the joint? I replaced one of these axles one time and I recall he joint being...not loose, but very knuckle full of grease friendly. I think I'd lean toward keeping the grease for water repellant as well.
Zipper style boots ROCK as far as doing a replacement job. If they didn't unzip, then you'd have to pop both king pin bushing outta the knuckle and work very carefully to get the alignment just right so that the knuckle with come off of the pins. It's a little tricky if stuff is greasy. Also, I think the grease helps the zipper from leaking water in.
Do you mean in addition to the guard in front of the boot?
Big Blocks RULE!
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