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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Highland springs va
    Posts
    22

    Default Power brakes pulling.

    Hello, I was hoping for some advice. I put in a power brake system, new wheel cylinders, booster and master.
    I've been adjusting the star wheel for days on end it seems, re-bled the system. Driver side front and rear will lock up in gravel, the passenger side does not which of course pulls me sharp to the driver side. And into oncoming traffic.
    I connected the new master per the power brake sticky somewhere on this site.
    Any advice? I need to get this thing braking straight so I can get to the exhaust shop and start driving it after ten years of waiting.
    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Try bleeding the right side again. Sounds like you could have air in the system. Also, did you change all of the wheel cylinders when you rehabbed the brakes?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Highland springs va
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I replaced three wheel cylinders, passenger rear cylinder is the only one I couldn't get out yet. Luckily it was also the only original that is both working and not leaking so I decided to take the chance on leaving it for now.
    Will try to get that last stubborn cylinder out and re-bleed the system again before I do anything else.
    I get good squirt from the bleeder when I crack it under pressure, I can't imagine the rubber line is collapsing or something weird happening under pressure and stopping the fluid from getting to the passenger front corner, am I missing something there perhaps?
    Thanks,
    Help with this stuff can be tricky for me to find around here, all the guys my age seem to like the little imports.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    When you put your foot on the brake pedal and someone opens the passenger side bleeder, does your foot go down the same way as the driver's side?

    Both sides are connected and should see the same pressure, so you likely have a blockage somewhere.
    Last edited by Mikel; July 22nd, 2018 at 11:35 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    Besides the above suggestions. What about the brake hoses?
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Highland springs va
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I left the original lines and only replaced what had to be done at the time. Guess it's time to just go ahead and replace all the lines.
    I'll try being the pedal man and see what that feels like.
    I did leave the brake light switch in, maybe I should circumvent that and just put in a t when I run new lines?
    I put in an electrical brake switch off the brake pedal so the old pressure switch is just a junction block at this point.
    Thanks for the advice! Have a direction to go now.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    You could pull the drum from the offending corner and have someone lightly step on the brake pedal while you look to see if the brake shoes are moving. Hopefully that's not the case and you can work your way backwards until you find the problem.

    If you have air in one side, all it's going to do is give you more pedal travel before you get the brakes to start working, and will make no difference on which side (L/R) the air is, because they share the same circuit and pressure is equalized.
    Last edited by Mikel; July 22nd, 2018 at 08:22 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    I agree with Barrman to replace the rubber brake hoses. After 50 years the inside of the hoses are probably not in the best of shape.

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