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Thread: Towing 725

  1. #1

    Default Towing 725

    Hi all I have a question I plan on towing my 725 with my gamagoat.I have a tow bar is there anything that I should do to the 725 before towing it. We will be towing to the show in Aberdeen.
    John

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    I have seen people recommend disconnecting the drag link from the steering box. Apparently, the original steering boxes don't like being forced one way then another.
    67 M725 67 M715 68 M715

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    The Jeep Owners Bible by Moses Ludel states that the steering box in some of the civvy trucks...and ours of course...dont like inputs from the tires back to the box...they like it from the steering wheel to the box only...tears the box up to do it from the tires.

    So, yep, disconnect the drag link...

    I would also recommend backing the brakes way off on adjustment. For a reason no one has quite figured out completely, my front brakes engaged and dragged the tow vehicle to a stop on a flat tow...literally cooked the pads to charcoal and heated the front wheel/backing plates to very cherry red.

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks

  5. #5

    Default

    Also, DON"T TOW IT WITHOUT A FRONT BUMPER! I did and now have some work to do on my frame horns. I disconnected my driveshafts too.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Huntingtown,Md.
    Posts
    444

    Default

    I pulled mine, and didn't drop anything, but kept the speed down to 50. I haven't tried to tow it yet with the p/s setup, I hope it will be alright when I do. When's the show?

  7. #7

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    I did for get to add...you can pull the driveshafts or...

    If you have lockout hubs on the front, turn them in the freewheeling position...

    For the rear, I have a plate that bolt on to the end where the axle is...I remove the axle shafts and bolt these plates on. They have a hole drilled in the center and a square plug screwed in so that I can pump in a little gear oil right onto the axle bearings at gas stops. The oil level in the rear leaves a little lube out there...I squirt more before I leave and a little at stops.

    This stops the ring and pinion in both axles...unlike just pulling the shafts...so the least heat build up and the least drag.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    hole drilled in the center and a square plug screwed in so that I can pump in a little gear oil right onto the axle bearings

    Doesn’t this defeat the wheel bearing grease? Isn’t the gear lube sealed into the axels?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,532

    Default

    The rear axle bearings are greased when installed but are open to the lube from the center section during use. If you pull a rear axle, you drop about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of gear oil with the truck sitting flat and level.
    The grease pack for install keeps the bearings lubed while waiting for use. The gear oil, while driving, will eventually wash out the grease.

    When towing, one can pull the rear hub and pack the bearings up good...still want the hole to put in a little extra gear oil myself though.

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