Will Ford Dana 60/70 Axles work with an M-715?

[Tiller]

I found a matching pair of Ford Dana axles from a 1999 F-350 (not a dually)

It's a Dana 60 front and Dana 70 rear. I'm familiar with engines & trans but truck axles are relatively new for me. Will these work without drastic mods?

Now I know some will say that the the older manual locking axles are "stronger". I agree but I'm more interested in a user friendly setup and wouldn't mind trying to work out the details to avoid having to get out to lock the hubs.

Any thoughts are appreciated, the price seems reasonable at $1000 for the pair with disc brakes all around. I think there is room to negotiate a bit better price too.

[saxon]

Not a bad price, and I think they're high pinion type, drivers drop. Run an old style ford 205 transfer case and you're golden! (After the fact, I wish I'd done that.)I don't know what activates the hubs to lock in though.

[brute4c]

Since Ford uses the drivers side for the front driveshaft, unlike the stock truck using the passenger side, putting a stck type winch on would be a challenge...dont know what all you have planned so just an fyi...

[guswheels]

The rear should be a sterling 10.5".Very strong axle,they just hang down low due to the shear size.I havent seen a dana 70 rear in a f250/f350 since the mid 80s.Might be able to trim it up though for some more ground clearence.Theres another thread on here about the super duty 60 fronts.I know the drivers side tube is very short.measure carefully before you buy it.It would be a p.i.t.a to buy it and not be able to use it.

[Doug]

Some of those F350s actually had a Dana 50-Sterling 10.5 combo... A lot of people mistake them for a 60 front. They're also unit bearing which isn't as stout as the older 60s. And gus is right, the drivers side tube is very short.

It's not bad equipment, it just isn't as good as a set from a CUCV and therefore doesn't merit the same value. IMO, you'd be better off to try to aquire the CUCV axles instead and pay $500 more. You'll have something we know will work and you get the rear locker for free in the process.

[guswheels]

I would have to agree 100 % you would be better off with the old 14b/d60 combo in my opinion

[Tiller]

Lots of good info guys, exactly what I expected. Thanks. The axles are located a little over an hour from me and I have not seen them first hand. I have some pictures though. Yes they are rusty and will require some TLC.




First comment is in regards to Brute4c's advice on passenger side differential. That was the first thing I tried to determine from the pictures. (I'm not familiar enough with all the truck setups yet to know off the top of my head). Am I confused at what I am looking at here, because the front axle appears to be passenger side. Or is it upside down? I tried to determine based on spring mount location. That could be my problem as I may be missunderstanding how they mount in a 99 Ford. I checked out a couple of lifted Fords on the way to work and sure enough they were driver's side.

Which brings me to my second question. If I go to inspect these, how do I determine that they are actually Dana 60 & 70 axles? Are there serial numbers with obvious designators? What else would I look for?

Third question: If the front is drivers side then I would also have to get a drivers side t-case and fab up mounts correct? There would also be fab work required to relocate shift levers correct? Anyone have thoughts on how difficult that would be?

Lastly, in regards to Doug's comments about CUCV axles. Are the CUCV axles stronger than a set of late model Dana 60 (front & rear) or Dana 60/70 combo like this. Say I found a late 90's early 2000's model Ram or Ford salvage with good axles. Would the CUCV axles have equivalent strength? Sounds like they would be much easier to swap, but I was under the impression that the Dana 60's and 70's are stronger units. Thanks for any and all info.

[brute4c]

Ford axles ARE drivers side in the front...for a long time now...at least since the 60's.

Dana 60 and 70 identification...on the webbing of the center section, as you look at the cover, on the lower right corner, should be a raised number...60 or 70 will tell you it is a Dana 60 or 70.

If it is a Dana/spicer axle, there will be a BOM number on the axle tube. That number can be entered on Danas site and tell you the original application...this link is where you go for that:
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/demenu.aspx?prod=AXL

In the Light Axle column, click on 'Axle Bill of Materials'.
The Bill of Materials...or BOM as it is called, can be found as in this example:

[Doug]

Hard to say for certain with that pic, but it sure looks like a 50/10.5 set laying there. The 50 housing is 12.5" wide from where the axle housings are inserted...as if you cut the axle tube of each side of the dif and measured what was left. 60 is 13.5" wide. 60 should be marked D60F. Axle ratio should be on the tag on the cover, 3.73 or 4.11 were the only options IIRC.

The front is laying upside down. Some of those fords used auto locking hubs, I "think" you could still engage them manually, but you better research that first before you dive in.

It would be a pain to change to a drivers drop front when you don't really need to.

A locker for the 10.5 is going to run you $600-$700 shipped to your door.

60 front from a CUCV is going to be a better axle than a 60 from a late model and much easier for you to swap in. As with many things, they figured out how to make them cheaper with time.

The 14 bolt rear from a CUCV may be a smidge less of an axle than the 10.5 , but it's a toss up IMO. As above, you're getting a locker free with the 14 bolt vs paying $$$ for one for the 10.5.


Good luck!

Oh, there's ton of info on pirate...google "billavista dana 60" and it should pop right up. Not so much on late model stuff, but the older ones are covered very well.

[Doug]

Jon, I don't think the 50 is marked "50" like the 60s are and the protion of the housing where you're drawing shows that info being located is coverd by the spring perch conglomoration on a super duty.

Disc brakes on that sterling would be nice, really the only plus I see as the old 14 bolts are drum and need to be changed over to disc for the swap into a M715.