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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Middleville, mi.
    Posts
    1,290

    Default

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fernandina Beach, FL
    Posts
    3,689

    Default

    While doing a survey of the needed brake parts for my M715, I found that the front wheel cylinders had leaked a little. I know you may be able to clean them with denatured alcohol but I was not comfortable with that.

    I got rebuilt shoes from A. B. Linn and they are riveted and they look good. But I have not tried to install them yet. It is still cold here!

    "News at 11..."

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    There is a way to adapt a civilian shoe....this is a repost from WetCJ:
    What was the brake shoe companies name I looked at Raybestos with the Number #60 nothig came up..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,660

    Default

    Using the TS60 NAPA shoe info above I found this...

    Brand:RAYLOC
    Part Number(s):TS60


    Try that and let us know if it works...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,660

    Default

    Found this as well:
    RAYLOC TS60
    RAYBESTOS 60PG
    CARQUEST BS273
    AutoZone 60PG



    Make Model Year Engine
    DODGE D200 PICKUP 58-57 All
    DODGE D300 PICKUP 59-57 All
    DODGE D300 PICKUP 71-68 All
    DODGE D300 SERIES 67-60 All
    DODGE P300 71-61 All
    DODGE P300 SERIES 1959 All
    DODGE P300 VAN 1961 All
    DODGE W200 PICKUP 59-57 All
    DODGE W200 SERIES 1960 All
    DODGE W300 PICKUP 59-57 All
    DODGE W300 SERIES 64-60 All
    FORD F-350 PICKUP 66-53 All
    FORD P-350 66-56 All


    Hope that helps...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Bloomfield CT
    Posts
    313

    Default

    My NAPA comes up with nothing for a TS60, trying the TS320 also mentioned today. Chevy P30 van cross. Mikel just gave me the skinny on a relining shop that is pretty close (in Portland CT) too...

    Maybe I missed it, but did anyone give an application for the #451 autozone shoes?
    Is that real money?

  7. #7

    Default M715 Brake Shoes

    Gentlemen,

    I had my shoes religned at Brake & Clutch Supply, Inc in Seattle...

    Brake and Clutch Supply, Inc.
    2930 Sixth Avenue South
    Seattle, WA 98134

    cknutson@brakeandclutchsupply.com

    They did a great job for about $20 per shoe. Chris said you could send your shoes to him via US Postal and he will relign and send them back to you. You can contact him at the above email or: 206-622-5655

    Hope this helps. ken

  8. #8

    Default

    They do good work, thats where I had my emer brake band re lined, I have delt with these guys a lot.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Portland, Maine
    Posts
    152

    Default

    Which shoe is being run in front for those of you modifying civvy shoes? I modded a set of Napa TS320's for the front of my truck, and ran them with the long shoe in the back. I know that the manual calls for the long shoe to be up front. My old shoes that came off were setup with the long shoe in the back too.

    Also, does the trap block orientation matter depending on what shoe is in front, or should it always face forward regardless of which shoe is up front?

  10. #10

    Default

    I just wanted to add a tip to this thread that seemed to work well for me.

    I was removing the drums to do a brake job and ran into the age old stuck screw problem. After not budging them with anything I had on hand I went to Chinese Freight and bought the biggest flat blade they had. It also came with a matching Phillips.

    I then took that screwdriver and using a 10mm wrench for torque turned off the first 2 with some elbow grease. Screw #3 proved more difficult and the tip of the screwdriver broke. After grinding down about 1/4" it fit even better with greater grip on the screws and #3 still would budge. Enter a 3' piece of rigid conduit as a cheater bar on the wrench. Presto!! #3 comes off and I move on to the next wheel.

    Wheel #2 proved even more difficult. Keep in mind this truck has been sitting in a barn for 20 some years. I thought to myself, there has to be a better way!!

    After removing the wheel I figured I might as well run the lugnuts back on with my impact and see if that helps break some rust and relieve some of the tension on the screws.

    To my surprise I could almost turn the screw off with the screwdriver by itself!!!!

    Your results may vary, but this worked excellent on the next 2 just as rusty wheels.

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