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Thread: 24volt to 12volt

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    Civilian FSJ one fits right in. My truck had one on it when I got it. Pistolnut's son uses it everyday now to go to school with in one of their trucks.
    Civi FSJ with what engine? Gotta be the civi 230, right?
    -- Tim Taylor


  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

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    Yeah, the 230. '63 to about '66 trucks and Wagoneers had the civilian 230.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

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    3 choices on the ignition:

    Civilian 230 distributor, coil, plugs and wires.

    Convert the military ignitor to 12 volt by changing out the coil.

    Convert the military ignitor to 12 volt by changing out the coil and add the civilian plug wires and plugs.
    ---------------------------------------

    The short life span of the military caps and rotors versus the civvy parts leans to the civvy ignition. The lack of vacuum advance on the mil ignitor also leans in favor of the civvy unit...though the civvy units are scarce and if the vacuum unit is bad, you cant get a new one...though you could probably find on for another application that could be adapted in to work.

    Civvy units lose the waterproof aspect of the mil unit and, of course, the look of the stock mil setup.

    Just throwing out pros and cons.
    Last edited by brute4c; December 21st, 2007 at 11:13 AM.

  4. #14

    Default

    I still believe 24 volt is the way to go. In my conversion BACK to 24 volt, I was concerned with swapping out the civvy distributor and replacing it with the military ignitor due to the loss of vacuum advance. Reading many posts, including this one, I believe I will keep the civvy distributor and just change the coil to 24 volt along with suitable ballast. My ultimate goal with any '715 I bought was to go completely stock for shows, etc. Since mine has too many civvy parts in it already and the costs to completely restore it to original are extreme, I will convert to 24 volt for the comm gear but leave the civvy manifold, distributor, carburetor and radiator. The exterior will be military, along with the shelter so no prize but will still look good.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rboltz View Post
    My ultimate goal with any '715 I bought was to go completely stock for shows, etc. Since mine has too many civvy parts in it already and the costs to completely restore it to original are extreme, I will convert to 24 volt for the comm gear but leave the civvy manifold, distributor, carburetor and radiator. The exterior will be military, along with the shelter so no prize but will still look good.
    Well, since your goals tend to be in the minority, you stand a very good chance of getting all sorts of the stock military stuff from fellow Zoners who are opting for the more common plan to swap in a SBC or such.

    Post up in the Wanted forum what you'd like and bump it to the top every couple weeks or so for a while to see what comes up. You might be surprised....
    -- Tim Taylor


  6. #16

    Default 12v Drop-in Coil & Alternator

    Just found this old post. Does anyone know the correct drop-in 12v coil for the original military distributor?

    Has anyone converted to a 12v alternator recently that could list the part number that is compatible to the original 230 bracket?

    Oops also the plugs and wires.

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by brute4c View Post
    3 choices on the ignition:

    Civilian 230 distributor, coil, plugs and wires.

    Convert the military ignitor to 12 volt by changing out the coil.

    Convert the military ignitor to 12 volt by changing out the coil and add the civilian plug wires and plugs.
    ---------------------------------------

    The short life span of the military caps and rotors versus the civvy parts leans to the civvy ignition. The lack of vacuum advance on the mil ignitor also leans in favor of the civvy unit...though the civvy units are scarce and if the vacuum unit is bad, you cant get a new one...though you could probably find on for another application that could be adapted in to work.

    Civvy units lose the waterproof aspect of the mil unit and, of course, the look of the stock mil setup.

    Just throwing out pros and cons.
    Last edited by txleadfoot; June 10th, 2018 at 02:50 PM. Reason: forgot plugs & wires

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