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Thread: Correct hardware for attaching the torque reaction arm.

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    The part being on a 1969 is an easy out for me. All of the trucks I have experience with are November 1967 units.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  2. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TJinSD View Post

    Is your truck a '69? I wonder if that's one of that year's mods.
    Mine was made May 1967

  3. #23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    The part being on a 1969 is an easy out for me. All of the trucks I have experience with are November 1967 units.
    I was hoping! But no such luck.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  4. #24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jeepdan View Post
    Mine was made May 1967
    Well, I have no option but to try to find one then.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  5. #25

    Default Hardware parts pictures

    Here are the hardware parts with the exception of the locknut for the 1/2in bolt that I still have to get. Sorry about the dirty rag for a background, my box-o-rags went dry. Also, I have a flat washer about mid way on the 3/8ths bolt that I think I will change to a lock washer because I think that's what is on Jeepdan's setup. And it makes more sense.
    The studs are for attaching the torque arm to the transmission.
    When I get the insulators/bushings we will see if everything goes together.
    Thanks everyone!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

  6. #26

    Default Updates from assembly

    The 3/8ths bolt has to be at least 4.5 inches long. The 4 inch bolt I tried at first didn't stick up through the exhaust bracket at all. I used a 5 inch bolt and left 1/2 inch stick out above the top nut. Looks like it should be just right.

    I cut the bushings out of a strip of chemical and weather resistant rubber that I found at Grainger. It wasn't as much fun as I hoped it would be. I have enough left over to share if anyone else would like to try to make some bushings, too. I'm not sure how long these will last. Time will tell.

    The sleeve that is between the 1/2 inch bolt and the bushings I cut the length down to 1.25 inches. It seemed to be interfering with tightening the bolt at its store bought length. (1.5 inch, maybe?)
    1968 M-715 w/1100R16s on Stockton wheels, H3 headlights, 2bbl upgrade...

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