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Thread: binfordm715 : Troop seat wood specs

  1. #11

    Default amphi :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by amphi on May 12, 2006, 6:25pm

    Tim,

    Bring the boards by here on your way home--- we can stack em' --- run the saw-mill over em' and make them all at once with one ruff-cut pass for each dimension.

    The mill is set up and ready to rock. Cutting cedar tomorrow wanna' help?

  2. #12

    Default marknessmonster :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by marknessmonster on May 12, 2006, 6:33pm


    Quote:
    My uncle an old farmer who has used oak lumber and posts cut on his property,said to me when we were bs'ing about white oak versus red oak ,when i said "I hear white oak lasts longer than red" he said "yeaaah about ten minutes".


    The wise uncle is absolutely correct. It's not like I'm talking about the difference between Douglas fir and Cedar. I was just making an observation in hopes of discovering what species of oak was the factory original.

    Anybody know?

  3. #13

    Default k8icu :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by k8icu on May 12, 2006, 8:38pm

    The factory species was oak.... I could be wrong but I don't think they made preference on white or red. Just that it was oak. I've seen both on some troop seats and tailer racks that I've worked on in the pass. Tim you have to paint the boards OD Green It in the regs....

    I think the splice is because the boards were made in running lengths of 20-25 feet or so and then cut to length as needed. Therefor there are splices in them.

    I think it would be cool to get some of the new fiberglass boards that they are using now. I have also wondered how composit materials would work.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default binfordm715 :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by binfordm715 on May 12, 2006, 10:13pm

    Boy, you two need to quit posting back-to-back. Your Avatar is confusing me!

    You know, I think stained oak would look fantastic! Paint them green?! So sad. Well, it's not going to be completely stock anyway. So a nice walnut stain will do nicely! Even if it means I'm forever stuck on the Modified Board!

    Amphi, how about you just run that mill on up here and show me how it works! Next weekend I'll be cutting some trees around here, and everything.....

    So, the finished measurements of the boards I'm looing for will be 87.0" long, 3.0" wide and 0.75" thick. Is that right?

  5. #15

    Default marknessmonster :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by marknessmonster on May 13, 2006, 5:40am

    Copy cat on the avatar!

    I like the idea of stained wood and was considering the same for mine. Actually, I am also likely to stray from specs on the dimensions since I don't have the correct hardware anyway.

    I think you are on a better path Tim, by sizing the wood to factory specs. You never know when you might feel the urge to go "restoration" and then you'd just have to paint over the stain. Also, if you ever sell, a larger pool of buyers would appreciate the correct parts.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default brute4c :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by brute4c on May 13, 2006, 6:30am

    My spliced troop seats have a sawtooth edge where the boards join...will have to take a pic...later though...we are heading out for the day.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Silver Lake Sand Dunes MI
    Posts
    1,490

    Default beast :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by beast on May 13, 2006, 8:20am


    Quote:
    You know, I think stained oak would look fantastic! Paint them green?! So sad. Well, it's not going to be completely stock anyway. So a nice walnut stain will do nicely! Even if it means I'm forever stuck on the Modified Board!


    I left mine stained clear when I first finished my 715 because I like the little bit of color change on the vehicle.

    But once I finished the deuce, I didn't feel like spending that much money to build the troop seats out of oak, so I used pine and knew I was going to paint them green. Once I did that I like the green so much that I pulled the troop seats off the 715 and sprayed them 24087 green also.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default binfordm715 :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by binfordm715 on May 13, 2006, 10:00am

    I have nothing against the green painted wood. Don't get me wrong. My thinking is exactly like Dave's. I did my pick-maddock handle with walnut stain and will do my axe and shovel handles that way as well. Thought I'd do the troop seats in stain as well. And like Madness wrote (and Dave did), I can always paint over them if I want. Kind of hard to stain over the paint though!

    I'm not in any great hurry with this, so any time you can get a pick to me would be great. Perhaps a side shot so I can pick the right router bit for the rounded edges too.

    I will pick up as much of this wood as I can. So I should be able to make up a few sets if anyone needs them.

  9. #19

    Default devildog :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by devildog on May 13, 2006, 12:45pm

    Steel fasteners in contact with oak and some moisture will turn the oak black around the fasteners. Stainless or bronze fasten ers may be a better choice if you are leaving them natural or stained.

  10. #20

    Default texan :

    Re: Troop seat wood specs
    Post by texan on May 13, 2006, 3:55pm

    Binford, I'll send you a sample of an original slat if you want one. I'm going to copy the original profile on mine. Let me know and PM me your mailing address.

    Don

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