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  #121  
Old December 3rd, 2020, 11:26 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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One thing for sure is, I am not fast. I was going to wait and post all the fix at once. But it is taking longer than I thought. I am eager to move on to the transmission rebuild and more so on the new top(s). More to do on this cab but not so intense in detail. I made a new floor pan trying to make an exact duplicate. I replaced a short section of bad pitting on the back wall. It fits pretty well so far. The flat open section of patch should never touch the parent metal. You always need a gap. It will buckle every time if it has no gap.



More metal wrestling. Like playing with a bunch of rusty razor blades. My hands are beat up.



Bead blasting revealed a bad edge. Thank fully that was the only good intact part from the old metal. Time for a graft.



I want to paint under this part before welding it in. I will run a paint wand in all of it on both sides of the cab, but I want to make sure it is coated.
The metal is close to like new.



It fits pretty well. I still need to trim the other end to fit. It will take all day to attach everything permanently.



I will post the finished work picture later when I get it done. I have a couple parts to make and send out.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; December 3rd, 2020 at 11:39 AM.
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  #122  
Old December 4th, 2020, 07:30 PM
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Al, Holy cow...I could hang out at your place and learn more than I know...amazing!!!
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  #123  
Old December 4th, 2020, 08:36 PM
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Well I wish you lived closer. That would be a hoot. Sounds like you are feeling better?
I should have this welded up in a couple few days. I painted under the upper stamped hat channel with some high zinc anti corrosion paint yesterday. Keeping it away from the weld zones. If there was one thing M715 owners should do, is get some paint inside the hat channels above and below the floors. There are convenient access holes already and eastwood sells an internal frame paint that comes with a long spray hose. It is kind of a joke as the stupid hose won't uncoil easily for feeding down a channel. A hair dryer or a heat gun will help get it straight. But 3M makes a stiffer spray wand that works better. I will be cutting 1 inch access holes on the back wall of the rockers for a heavy internal spray also. I'd rather spend a little on paint than replace metal later. Anyway, I am learning too every time I do this kind of repair. It does not do any good to hold back info. Unless it is a mistake. The more trucks we can all save, the better.
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  #124  
Old December 8th, 2020, 08:21 AM
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Very impressive, I wish I had quarter of the patience and skill you have working with sheet metal.
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  #125  
Old December 8th, 2020, 10:45 AM
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It is going together like a big sandwich. I have not been able to work on it the last couple days. I had a couple parts to make and send of to NY state. I was kind of on a roll with the truck. Then a project shift. Looks like others have winter stay at home projects too. That is good right now. My T98 mainshaft showed up. I will be pulling the trans for a complete tear down soon. And now the big table is free for some soft top work. I hope to start cutting new panels also. I have been thinking about the top stuff a lot. In what order to assemble it. Puts me to sleep at night.

And a exceptional find last night. I found a Dodge divorced NP205 25 minutes from me. A ridiculous great low price and in great shape. The IH NP205 mounted in the truck gave up a bunch of water when the drain plug was removed. So I am expecting damage inside from that. I will just swap internals if I need to. Onward and forward.
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  #126  
Old December 8th, 2020, 03:49 PM
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I'm very curious what you come up with on the Dodge 205 if you wind up installing that one. I have mine fully rebuilt and need to fab up brackets to hang it. I have access to a very powerful press brake that can easily bend 1/2 plate...although that would probably be overkill.
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  #127  
Old December 8th, 2020, 03:57 PM
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My one 4bt 715 has a Dodge divorce NP205. I'll have to crawl under and take some pictures of it.
Al, looks like you're going to be driving yours by next summer.
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  #128  
Old December 8th, 2020, 05:30 PM
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Thanks glenn. No immediate rush, but I would like to see how you did it.
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  #129  
Old December 8th, 2020, 10:29 PM
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I can see that the Dodge 205 would have been easier to mount with less bends in the adapter plates. I damaged my 20 ton press bending the 5/16 plate steel to get the International 205 in place. The press is still good but it is bent a little. A press brake that will do 1/2?? Sweeet! You won't have any issues making mounting adpater plates eightyduece.
My thoughts were to keep the IH case in the M truck since I made it fit, and just use any gears/shafts I may need from the Dodge 205. Hopefully the water did not damage anything and I can keep the dodge 205 intact. I will take a picture of both the IH and Dodge 205's side by side soon. So people can see the difference in where the mounting bolts are on each case. Glenn, I sure hope you are right. I would love to fast track this build. This truck does not need to be perfect like the last wagoneer I did. I just want a clean driver to play in.


I did get most of the floor pan welded in today. A little more welding, then I will weld in the upper stamped hat channel and throw some paint on it and move onward. Slow progress, but it is looking good so far.
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  #130  
Old December 9th, 2020, 08:53 PM
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This is for eightyduece. Glenn, I also hope to see how your Dodge 205 is mounted. So please still post up. Here is the passenger side Dodge 205 case and mounting holes.



As I did below, use the OEM angle mount installed on the rubber biscuits. Discard the Dodge angle plate and rubber. Then build a flat adapter plate to reach up high enough to put bolts through it. You would probably need some metal round spacers between the plate and case to make up any distance for the plate to clear the case. Like this plate but the Dodge plate would not have any bends like this one for the International case.



The drivers side of the Dodge case. Mounting bolt holes in a different place than the IH case.



Using the drivers side OEM M715 angle and rubber biscuits, rotate the angle 180 degrees as I did to place the upright part of the OEM flange closer to the frame rail. Then build an adapter plate with one bend to reach the bolt holes. It looks like it would be a 45 degree ISH bend. Here is what I had to build to reach the IH case holes.



In my opinion, I would hard mount the plates on the case and not use the Dodge rubber biscuits there. The OEM M715 rubber biscuits under both mounts allows the entire case to move and flex quite a bit. When yarding on the shifter, the whole gear box moves more than I want it to. So like what I did to my GM 205 I had mounted under my old CUCV truck, I bought a rear cover mount to stabilize the case better. I picked it up from DIY4X.com

https://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17683

I have not welded it together yet. I made steel bushings to weld it together without melting the poly, of course I could not find them. I managed to find something else to weld it. Here is the rear support that should make it pretty solid.



So a Dodge 205 is easier to mount than a IH one. Hope this helps some.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; December 9th, 2020 at 08:56 PM.
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