Wheel Cylinder Conversion

[RRatch]

Quick thanks for the Chevy WC part numbers.

I just did a complete replacement of the stock brake system on my blue '67. Corvette MC, lines, and new wheel cylinders, without any drilling.
My lines were in good shape, but they were full of crud and rust never sleeps, so I replaced all with Cupro-Nickel anyway. Every point fluid touches is brand new.

I used the Chevy WC's, but could only find 7 right side units (I have 2 trucks), so went with that on both sides and just compensated in line routing on the left side.

The pedal is nice and firm, and stops the wheels on jack stands pretty well. Road test this weekend...


Here's my "after-action" summary and material list:


$172 total

Multiple fittings for 3/16 And 1/4 line:
$13.77
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XY...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

25' rolls of 3/16 And 1/4 cupro line with various fittings:
$62
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015Y...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Double flaring kit:
$20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CK...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rear axle 3/16 fitting hose:
$13
ACDelco 18J2119
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wheel cylinders (1/4 thread inputs)
$19.04 ($4.76 ea)
part no. WC9344/EW9345 (all passenger side, but works on either)

Master Cylinder (corvette, non-power brakes):
$31.93 ($25 on 11/17/17)
Cardone Select 13-1371 New Brake Master Cylinder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


(2) Front axle 3/16 fitting female ended hoses (usable, but too short for factory location; requires some bracket fab and steel line extending)
$12.90 ($5.95 ea + ship)
Sunsong - 2203913 - $5.95 ea (new stock)
Raybestos - BH36599 - $4.46 ea (NOS) - not used in this project
Dorman - H36599 - $7.65 ea (NOS) - not used in this project


An important note is the hoses for the front wheels. The ones I used are about 6" too short compared to factory, so require rerouting the steel line and bringing it further from the wheel and lower on the chassis. I was running new metal lines anyway, so no big deal.
Nowhere to host pics, but I stupidly ran the wheel end metal line over the kingpin, so if I ever remove it, I'll have to remove the line and bleed the brakes. Didn't think of it until the job was done and something in my head said it wasn't right.

Also, these are probably not good stock replacement parts, but rather for an entire system rebuild. The wheel cylinders required 7/16-24 fittings, and I ran 3/16 to individual wheels. Every other fitting in the truck is standard to the line size, EXCEPT at the master cylinder, where I again needed 1/2-20 fittings to adapt down to 1/4" line (for the single line to the rear) and 9/16-18 to 3/16" to the front wheels.

[brute4c]

GREAT post!!!!!!!!!! Part numbers, descriptions, prices....its got it all. SO SUPER!

Thanks for this...great stuff!

[Rtech1841]

What did you use for shoes? whats the napa #

[RJBM715]

I know this is an old thread but looking for some help I bought these wheel cylinders and I’m finding that they are longer rubber to rubber was this the same with yours? And does anyone know if the E350 ones are the same?
Thanks for the help

[brute4c]

The e350 are identical except for the position of the mounting holes thus the necessity of opening the bottom of the stock mounting holes on the backing plate. Otherwise, they are the same.

[RJBM715]

Thanks I returned the others and picked up the e350 ones today.

[RJBM715]

Originally Posted by brute4c

The e350 are identical except for the position of the mounting holes thus the necessity of opening the bottom of the stock mounting holes on the backing plate. Otherwise, they are the same.

Worked great thanks guys. Working on getting a J20 booster and master installed.