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  #111  
Old October 28th, 2020, 02:43 PM
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So it looks like the front driveshaft output is 2.75" and the input is about 7.25".

Hope this helps
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  #112  
Old October 28th, 2020, 10:10 PM
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Absolutely it helps! Thank you Bill! Now I can get it located and drill some holes for bolts. I have been micro checking and getting ready for this. Again thanks and you helped keep people out of the snow to look.
************
So the M715 is supposed to be a 1.25 ton truck. But it has 1310 universal joints which are essentially half ton. I am upgrading the front driveline to 1350 joints which are 1 ton universals. The chevy K30 dana 60 uses 1310 equivalent's. The rear dodge Dana 70 has 1410 u-joints already. 1350 and 1410 have the same size bearing caps. 1410 is wider to allow more tolerance for angle. 1330 u-joints have the same size bearing cap (1.062) as a 1310. They are just wider and not really much stronger. The increased strength in a universal joint comes from a bigger bearing journal. Spicer is the only universal worth considering. They have lifetime lubed universals that eliminate the zerk fitting and grease channel for maximum strength. So in the long run any spicer lifetime u-joint is totally worth it. So I will have 1410 universals on the rear, 1350's with a CV driveline on the front which makes both ends a true 1 ton set up, and that leaves me with a 1310 intermediate shaft between gear boxes. I will upgrade to the strongest Spicer 1310 joint there and I will have to live with it. The part number is 5-1310X.
I am still looking for a 1350 yoke for a T98 or a T18 with a 1 3/8 shaft and 6 spline. Find that and change the transfer case to the 1350 yoke and a short intermediate 1350 driveline could be built with easy to buy inexpensive parts. Later in another life maybe.

Mounts made but not drilled.



They are 5/16 plate



A CV front driveline will not fit through the 3 inch wide factory hole. I needed an access cut. Plus some room for flex. I made a 3/8 thick drop to keep the strength of the frame cross member. Plus I am cutting the opening out to 4 inches. I will try to get a 1350 CV driveline made of a thick wall 2.5 inch tube for plenty of room. Most 1350 drivelines are 3 inch. The string line has been a help. Using squares to check transfer case yoke alignment using the string works great. Attached with super magnets on the pinion shaft and transfer case front output shaft, it shows the center line of the driveshaft. And slope for angle calculations. I will drill the lower support after the gearbox is mounted. It should clear the flex from a mall speed bump.



Thank you eightyduece! And have fun with those kingpins.
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  #113  
Old October 30th, 2020, 09:54 AM
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To funny. With probably hours of positioning and checking this and that, my 205 is sitting within 1/8 of an inch from Eightydueces measurements. Sometimes things just go right.
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  #114  
Old November 3rd, 2020, 05:13 PM
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The transfer case is mounted. Thank you eightyduece for the dimensions for the np200. I may add a mount to the rear cover like I did to my old CUCV. It does move when yarding on the shifter. I had a left over 205 shifter but it just would not work. I dug out an old wagoneer shifter and cut it off. Then made the rest of the shifter assembly. It works well and just needs paint. Two set screws hold in the jeep part in case I need to change it later. I have some boots saved and will figure that out later. A 1410 32 spline rear and a 1350 32 spline front yoke are on the way.



Moving on to the clutch slave cylinder mount and opening up the frame crossmember for the driveline.
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  #115  
Old November 6th, 2020, 07:54 PM
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Interesting. My transfer case is not a Dodge at all. It is a 74-75 International divorced case. Thankfully with 32 spline shafts. I was doing some research and saw Dodge cases bolt up completely different. A little searching and there they were. International all day long. It was advertised as a Dodge. At least I knew it was a divorced 205. I am also half way through making a clutch slave cylinder mount.
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  #116  
Old November 21st, 2020, 10:48 PM
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I decided to build a cart for the cab. I really wanted it out of the weather and did not want to loose it in deep snow. Well the snow keeps melting and the cab is inside...
So first was to cut the battery tray out and see how much rust there was. This is why battery acid and steel don't do well together. I am going to remove the entire upper hat channel and then the floor and see how the lower hat channel is. Not the first time I have had to do this exact repair.



Removing the paint shows where the spot welds are. I have them all cut and released now. Some of the spot welds did not hold. They did not penetrate and grab. When I cut them the center puck that should have been welded fell right out. I will fix that.



I decided to not remove the structure just yet. I needed to sling the cab onto the chassis. To test fit everything. Then remove it and get after the metal replacement. I wanted to know what needed to be done.





The transfer case shifter I made needs to be moved 1/2 an inch or so towards the drivers side. To be centered in the boot. Other than that is looks like it will work well.



And the header clears by 3/8's of an inch. Cool, as it would be a bummer to not use them.



A couple more things to look at and off it goes back onto the cart. I will rebuild the entire corner metal. I am also getting ready for a complete T98 transmission rebuild with a J truck input shaft swap. And the NP205 after that. Covid is keeping us home. I will be doing this all winter. Bring it on...
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  #117  
Old November 22nd, 2020, 06:03 AM
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I can’t recall anyone posting their T98 rebuild here. I always love the depth of your posts and explanation of what you’re doing. I can’t wait to see that process!
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  #118  
Old November 22nd, 2020, 09:33 AM
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The small parts kits should be here in a couple days. I hope to find NOS USA made bearings for their quality. SKF is a safe bet for new these days. Most everything else unless marked, is a rebranded import. I will try to post relevant detail. I had to make and buy some puller parts. I enjoy gear work.
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  #119  
Old November 28th, 2020, 11:09 AM
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My T98 and NP205 small parts kits have arrived. I intend to do a separate T98 rebuild thread so it does not get lost in the middle of this build thread. As soon as I get some sheetmetal repairs done I am on it.
So I spent most of a day trying to get the cab doors to shut right. A lot can happen over the years and they would not cooperate. I dug out one full size jeep drivers door from storage and took one door off a 70 J truck that is now getting scrapped. Removing the upper metal was way easier than I had thought. Three low profile screws on the latch side, two bolts on the hinge side. One in the round hole up top and one under the wrench.



Then sand the brass brazing joint back to cut it with a panel cutter. If you see sparks then move on. Brass does not spark and the steel is thin enough there. Aside from a spot weld cutter, this panel separating tool has been hammered through hundreds of spot welds. It is one of my go to tools.



Presto, instant M truck door... They fit absolutely fantastic. They literally shut and make both latches with ONE finger. Alignment is perfect all the way around. Great gaps etc.. Dang, thats cool.



Removed everything and took it off and put it back on the dolly.



I took the kick panel vents out of the J truck. I am going to cut my kick panels and put FSJ vents in. Not only will I be able to clean out all the leaves and debris, I can get paint in there also. That will be nice on a hot day.
So time to remove the bad corner. I sanded the paint to try to get to metal for welding. Wow as I went through four 80 grit disc's and gave up for now. I will try paint stripper. Toughest paint I have ever encountered. Two layers of OD green and two layers of red.

A high concentration of spot welds here. Some not done well. Which actually helped.




Continued...
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  #120  
Old November 28th, 2020, 11:10 AM
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No rust here... Again, battery acid is bad.






The hat channels under all of it are in super condition. So is the opposite side from all this. I will run a paint wand down them inside after all the metal work is done. High zinc frame paint.



I am only using the top stamped structural metal. I am starting on a new floor panel shortly. It will all go in one layer at a time.
Poor J truck. I said I would not kill another FSJ.



I had better get on the new patch.

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps; November 28th, 2020 at 11:17 AM.
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