Oil Line Blew

[Barrman]

Metal would work great. Until your motor mount broke and the engine hit the cab or the cab mounts broke and the cab moved into the engine.

But, that kind of thing would probably break the brass elbow fittings on there now as well.

The think to remember with metal, copper or aluminum line is fatique cracking. Have you ever wondered why brake lines always spiral down from the master cylinder on a vehicle? A metal line running straight from point A to point B is more likely to crack than one that has at least one curve per foot of line. So, if you are going metal on the oil line, run it out next to the engine, make a loop and then run it down to the T on the side of the block.

I just put a nipple on the back of the head, pushed some neoprene fuel line onto it and then did the same at the bottom end when mine broke in 2002. Was still working when I swapped out the engine in 2005.

[Doug]

I agree with Tim on the loop idea if you must use tube. Would prefer to see it in hose myself to be certain vibrations and movement don't cause a leak.


I changed mine without cutting a hole, it is a royal pain in the a$$, but you can make it happen.

[Captain Jack]

Well, after 10 hours of labor, I got the Cursed Evil Creature, back in. But I broke down, and drilled the hole in the firewall, and just stuck a plug in it. Didn’t want to, but I use the truck everyday, and couldn’t afford being out another day. Hey, I want to thank everyone for the advice, and it’s true, if you close your eyes, and hold your tongue just right, while biting into it as hard as you can without drawing blood, the force will be with you. Especially when you don’t hear the person come up behind you, while your laying on top of the engine, and you add that new dent into the hood. Thanks again.

[TheWarTapes]

Ok, this always starts a debate with every stubborn mechanic.
I only post this for the better of the people here on the Zone.
Yes, thread tape usually works for most people,but there are some things people should know about it's proper use when working on these HARD to reach places that you don,t want to have to deal with again soon.
Teflon Tape/Thread tape is NOT a sealer. I say again NOT a sealer.
Yes.... I know is says "sealer tape" on the label.
It is intended as a thread lubricant which is why plumbers will use it along with Rector Seal or another paste type sealer.
LocTite makes every sealer for ever application known to man. No, I am NOT affiliated in any way. I'm a Public Works Utilities Mechanic.
I just work with lots of pumps,and liquid fittings. Surprisingly, one of the best training classes I ever attended was all about this stuff.
I discovered I had been using tape, sealers, thread lockers and anti-seize compounds improperly for years. Thread tape is infamous for "walking" on the threads as you tighten. If you are using tape for any reason you never start wrapping at the first thread. start about 3 threads up. Actually, the recommended method is to use "Thread String". Same as Teflon only it is like dental floss and not likely to walk up the threads as you tighten.
That being said, the proper "sealer" would be the teflon liquid sealer or a similar liquid sealer. One big advantage with liquids is that when you pass your spot and have to back the fitting off a bit to line things up the sealer cures in place or remains somewhat pliable. Tape is all done when you back off a fitting.
Note: a piece of tape in the system could be BAD.
Anyone work on hydraulic systems??
The paste/liquid will wash away in the event any excess gets into anything. Thread locking compounds also have sealing qualities as well as protect the threads from any corrosion. The options are endless including locking compounds that are "wicking". These are used on hardware that is already in place. The compound will wick itself into a bolt thread and cure.
Anyway, I'm done blabbing. If it sucks to get to, you want to do the best job you can thats all. Just wanted to help if I could. On my Kaiser-saurus-rex I will cut to the chase and simply make an access hole because I'm lazy, use the sealer and make a hose with JIC hydraulic fitts. Its all good.

[randyscycle]

One thing to add to the above: If you are working with flare fittings, all the thread compounds and tape are of no use anyway. The flare is what does the sealing in that case. I can't count how many flare type fittings I have removed with thread tape on them.


In reference to using a steel line for a replacement to the oil line, I am not sure why Jeep chose rubber in the first place, but I wouldn't think vibration would be a huge issue, as the 230 is a pretty smooth running engine. Probably a cost thing or some ease of assembly line process.

The reason for the coiling of steel brake lines on most trucks is because you have a body-on-frame arrangement which allows the body to move independently of the frame to a very small degree. If you were to have no room for movement in the lines, they would possibly shear off in certain situations.

The cylinder head and block do not move independently of one another, so I can see no reason you couldn't use a steel line for a replacement. Every fuel injected vehicle uses steel lines all over the engine, only using rubber for the transition to the body or frame. With that said, I would be careful in the routing of the steel line and also be sure to secure it with a few clamps to keep it from hanging under its own weight and causing breakage or fracturing.

[brute4c]

The civilian engines I have seen DID use metal line here...I have posted a pic of one that I have in the past...for whatever reason, the military version got the flexi line where the civvy units had metal the whole time...

I dont see the image at present...if I find it, I will repost.

[rboltz]

My truck has metal tubing there. I agree with Randy, can't see vibration doing much harm here. Mine has squared bends so there is expansion and vibration damping. I never knew it was to be a hose as I assumed the tubing was correct. I also wonder why it is a hose? Learn more every day here!

[TheWarTapes]

I'll second that frustration. NO tape on hydraulic flare fitts or JIC fitts!
If you insist on some sort of seal or have a leaking flare fitting that has imperfections and wont stop leaking there is a nifty little thing called "Flare Seals"
I have used these in these situations for years. They are simply a thin flare shaped conical soft metal cup that seats right into the femal fitting and you sandwich it down when you tighten the fitting. These things are a savior to anyone who has dealt with old machines and hydraulics. They come in all sizes.

PS you should never need these. Fix it right and replace the part if you have the will.

Mike

[97XJSP]

I have to dig this one back up, I'm really suffering here. I guess I should have left the old one alone, it looks ok. Anyway, this describes my story EXACTLY:

Well, I got the thing out. It only took around 3 minutes, after I put down a piece of plywood down on top of the engine, to lie on. I had a new hose made at a tractor repair place for $20.03, not bad, Like Brutc4c shows, but im going to have to get a different fitting that goes into the engine, like what’s shown in the picture. The original is to short, and the metal collar on the new hose, hits right where the block and the valve cover connect. Ive gotten it started a dozen times, but as soon as it hits that valve cover, it pops back out.

I have the valve cover off and I have ground the new fitting, probably further than I should have. Every time I grind it a bit further, it still hits the block. The fitting on the new hose is just too big. I gave up on it and started to put the stock hose back on, until one of the brass fittings stripped. Now I'm really in the hole! Any body got any ideas? I was thinking of getting a short piece of hardline that is short enough so I can turn the line and fitting to tighten the fitting onto the head, and long enough to reach past the side of the block where I can add a union and another hard line to the T. Sounds a bit shoddy but I don't know what else to do, I'm getting sick of laying in there and turning this thing! I'm headed to the parts/ hydraulic store to see if they have any other ideas...

[brute4c]

I have the braided stainless steel line i made and used on my old motor...would ship that to you for a low price...it makes a nice handle for a stock brass elbow to screw to and then into the head...

Are you saying the brass elbow is in the head but loose? That could be a pickle to get tight...a crows foot maybe? Or put a coupler nut on a bolt, large enough to fit around the brass fitting, and stick the bolt in a hose...grind the head off if needed or use a stud if ya got it...and see if you can turn it with that...might try to get a hard cneter punch or scratch awl and try to stick that into the bass fitting and turn it that way...


Hopefully I understood the problem...