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Thread: warthog : Motor Mounts

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
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    11,520

    Default brute4c :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by brute4c on Jun 8, 2006, 10:47am

    Doesnt that move the engine back so that one has to do some firewall contouring to get the distributor to fit?

    I am under the impression that the spicer mount plate moves the ngine forward enough so that is no problem. I know spicer had room front and rear of the motor...plenty in both directions.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default brute4c :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by brute4c on Jun 8, 2006, 11:11am

    I remember that Brian has to mash the firewall for the distributor...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    369

    Default bluesman2a :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by bluesman2a on Jun 8, 2006, 11:12am

    I have those AA mounts on mine. They are very well built and make placement a snap. I haven't run mine yet, but don't anticipate any issues with my stroker.

    You can get some more pics in my doubler x-member thread. If there are any specific shots you want, I'd be happy to grab them, my driveline is in/out a lot these days.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga.
    Posts
    369

    Default bluesman2a :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by bluesman2a on Jun 8, 2006, 11:27am

    Oh, one other thought. The only serious issue I had on them with mine was clearance on the steering intermediate shaft on the driver's side. Not an insurmountable, but a concern none-the-less.

  5. #15

    Default warthog :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by warthog on Jun 8, 2006, 12:51pm

    I had remembered Spicer used the plate method and had considered it. I plan to mount a PTO winch from a M35 up front. I remember Spicer having to modify the mount on the driver side, but can't remember if it was for the PTO shaft or steering column. I figured by using the mount from advance adapters it would open up some of that space. Even though the plate method is a lot simpler and cheaper.

    I do plan to move the engine forward a little, as I just repaired firewall some numb skull had cut it all up and peeled back like a tin can.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Posts
    250

    Default 40grit :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by 40grit on Jun 8, 2006, 5:09pm

    I bought the trans-dapt...same exact thing as the AA, only without the diagonal support, the rest is the same, same thickness, I think AA buys the transdapt kit and welds them except for the price...get the transdapt kit, weld in some diagonals and be set...

    as for holding up...well, i'll see sooner or later when I uncork 450Hp thru them..but i'm sure they'll be fine even with a lot of torque and rockwells....

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default brute4c :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by brute4c on Jun 9, 2006, 8:36am

    Now that you post that....

    PAW sells the Trans Dapt ones...I see the difference now, though I hadnt looked too close before...THANKS!!

  8. #18

    Default warthog :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by warthog on Jun 9, 2006, 9:26am

    Thanks to all for posting all the different possible options.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default barrman :

    Re: Motor Mounts
    Post by barrman on Jun 9, 2006, 11:58pm

    I used the "Spicer" plate on my 396. 6,000 real world miles later and they are doing great. Easy to make, cheap and you clear the firewall with lots of room to spare. The stearing is not even close to the mounts.

    I used the stock 230 motor mounts bolted to the frame horns with the "plate" bolting the mounts to the engine. The only trouble I have noticed is that my engine is now tilted about 4 degrees to one side. The motor mounts have slid in the groove from all the massive torque. I just need to loosen the nuts and twist it back. Not really a problem, but something I noticed.

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