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Thread: Paint Removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Siloam Springs, AR
    Posts
    83

    Default Paint Removal

    What have you guys found that works best at prepeping the surface for new paint. My truck has about 3 colors on it and I am ready to at least paint a few parts as I teardown and "make new". My first piece is the front fascia. I plan on a full tear down to frame in a few years so right now I am just interested in protecting the bare metal I have and stopping any future rust but also try to get the truck presentable for weekend driving. Mainly body panels...not frame at this point. Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Painting over stuff, then just sand it smooth and shoot.

    Taking down to metal give you a few other options. The best is sand blasting. After that it boils down to money vs. time. Big cup wire brushes work pretty good, but take a long time. 60 grit on a D/A takes a lot longer, but cost less. The fastest non sand blasting thing I have found is this stuff:

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94015

    They cost about $3.00 each and 3 of them will stip a M35 rim in an hour or two.

    The grinder version which cost about $5.00 works real good on body parts. I spent about 2 hours with a 60 grit D/A on my M35 hood a week or so ago and got about 1 foot square down to bare metal. I bought 5 of the grinder versions of the stuff listed above and had the rest of the hood striped in another hour. $30/hour is kind of high though compared to maybe $3.00 spent on D/A paper for about 10 hours to probably finish it. Time vs. Money.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    I would add which ever way you choose to sand your paint or sand down to bare metal, a quality primer needs to be put down prior to any painting. If your doing any body work a sandable primer after the filler and then red oxide or something similiar should be good.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Siloam Springs, AR
    Posts
    83

    Default

    Any suggestions on good quality primer to use?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    Get the red oxide made by Gillesie. Rapco has it.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    parsons Kansas
    Posts
    476

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    Get the red oxide made by Gillesie. Rapco has it.
    not playing stupid but not a body man either and Ive seen where both gray and red oxide primers allow the topcoat to peal off down the road. is this due to poor prep work? gm and their silver topcoat on 90's vehicles with paint peeling off. Im used to spraying Glasurit paints and limited use of other paints. we had a 57 T-bird that was painted within the last year come in and we was to wash, clean, detail it out and check it all over for its new owner. I had to be the one wash the paint right off it in sheets so we ended up doing a complete paintjob on it. we have done hundreds of Amos Mintor's cars, who sells 55/57 t-birds and from Dallas came down to see the damage and I used a hose and spray nozzle so no real pressure was used.
    any Ideas?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
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    Default

    There was a body shop in Bryan/College Station years ago that used to have a radio add. A really sexy sounding lady talked about surface preperation and how she really liked lots of surface preperation before she did anything. Then some geeky sounding guy would talk about how they would take care of your body.

    The basics still hold true no matter what you are painting or with what. Surface prep is king to paint that stays on.

    The OEM's had trouble making the 2 stage paint systems work right. That was more a matter of cost cutting and "It will work for now" than anything else.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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