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Thread: Three lever switch connector

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    28

    Default Three lever switch connector

    Eventually, I would like to build a new wiring harness for the truck, but would like to preserve what is left of the original military harness. My curiosity was piqued as to whether I could find a new circular connector for the three lever switch so I wouldn't have to cannibalize the original. After hours and hours of searching, I may have some helpful information. The only references that I could find to the connector called it a MIL C 28-51 connector and some references to military stock numbers. I searched in vain for 28-51 connectors, so I decided to remove my three lever switch and look for part numbers. Those numbers didn't do a lot of good either, so I took some measurements from the connector and then did more searching.

    What I have found so far is that the connector appears to be a MIL-C-5015 type of connector, shell size 28. These connectors are available with many different insert configurations. The three lever switch seems to use the insert type 28-51. Also, the cable end mating connector would be a type 3106 for the straight cable entry.

    I have found several manufacturers that have MIL-C-5015 connectors in their product catalogs, but many list the 28-51 as a "special" insert, which I take to mean "we can make it if Uncle Sam gives us a contract". From the Amphenol catalog (and a few others), it appears to be current product.

    Newark Electronics (www.newark.com) has these connectors (the Amphenol military version), with the 28-51 insert in their online catalog, under circular connectors. I haven't purchased one yet to see if they work, because 1) I am not ready to rebuild the wiring harness yet and 2) the prices range from about $70 to almost $200 and 3) they are listed as "non-cancelable/non-returnable". Newark's website shows that these connectors ship in 2-3 business days, so I think that you really can get it, but then again, they also ship directly from supplier, so maybe not?

    I can't say for sure without buying one first, but I think I am on the right track. I was really hoping to find a commercial or industrial version rather than the military version to save money, but so far have had no luck.

    Perhaps someone else may find this information useful.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    This is very interesting to me...I am interested in your search...wish I could help with knowing if it is right or not but I dont have any info there...

    You have done a lot of leg work already...these would be real handy for a conversion...good thinking on your part!!

    Keep us appraised of what you find...maybe someone can add to your knowledge on this...wish I could...but thanks for doing it and for posting it!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I would suggest you buy a front harness for a M35 from e-Bay. You get a brand new plug like you want, plus just about every wire you are going to need to make the entire cab forward stock with brand new everything. I got one from KCGonzo a few months ago for $75.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  4. #4

    Default Connector Availability

    I did a lot of research into this some time back. You can search the archives for the thread. Since I was in the electrical/electronics business, I used mil connectors for many applications over the years. As I mentioned before, the one for the 3 lever switch seems to be "not available" through normal supply channels. I checked with several major suppliers and no luck. Other connectors, like the turn signal switch, ignitor and solid state flasher are available.

    One word of caution. You will find connectors on e-bay and from suppliers with wiring attached and listed as a "3-lever wiring harness". I think there is one on e-bay now. They DO NOT have all pins connected to wires or even present. They were used to convert the M800 trucks to the 3 lever switch from the commercial switches and all wires were not used so they are missing pins. You can move pins over from a an existing connector you may have but you should have the proper tool. I did this for my truck.

  5. #5

    Default Amphenol Catalog

    I have PDF pages of all the connector configurations currently made by Amphenol, a major military connector supplier. Not saying someone else can't/won't make it. You can PM me if you want a copy.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    If you're interested in an already cannibalized harness, I have an old one that has an intact switch connector.....Just PM me.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rboltz View Post
    I...... You can move pins over from a an existing connector you may have but you should have the proper tool. I did this for my truck.

    Rboltz, do you have any info regarding the extraction tool to remove the pins? I will be needing to do this shortly.

    Wart Hog

  8. #8

    Default You can Make a Removal Tool

    There are two types of inserts which the pins are mounted into. First, make sure your connector insert is the soft rubber type. This one can swap pins and is the one usually found. The other type is a molded hard plastic which won't work.

    Take a 6p finish nail and grind off the point but leaving a little bevel. Remove the compression ring at the rear of the connector. This exposes the wires where they disappear into the rubber insert. Put the nail, ground off end, into the pins socket you want to remove (just like the male end of the plug going into the socket). Press the nail head against a hard surface and the pin will come out the rear with little pressure.

    To install, reverse the process but taking care to get the nail bevel against the pin, not the wire, or you may cut the wire. There is enough stretch in the rubber insert to do this.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
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    Default

    Thank you for that tech!! I have looked at that a little in the past and not figured it out.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

    Default

    I just use the smallest 1/4" drive socket I have, an extension and a small hammer to remove mine. Then Vasoline and patience to install them. Not as high tech, but it works for me.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

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