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Thread: M715 Hauler / Crawler Build

  1. #51

    Default

    Thanks.

    Radiator, e-fan and shroud are in. Summit Radiator P/N: 380328

    I did the same thing many have already done, moved the passenger side radiator support over to line up with the second hole. I had to push the radiator assembly 2.5 inches forward of the original location to clear the water pump. I also had to drop it down quite a bit so the radiator cap would clear the hood.








  2. #52

    Default

    Nothing ground breaking here but I finished up the engine accessories. A rebuilt power steering pump from Borgeson along with the mounting brackets, 80 amp alternator with some modified mounting brackets and I bent up some upper radiator mount brackets. Shot some paint on the front end as well.








  3. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    looks good
    67 M725 67 M715 68 M715

  4. #54

    Default

    gonna pull good with that bbc

  5. #55

    Default Spark plugs and wires

    I picked up a M715 that appears to have been used as a forestry truck. Problem is they removed the stock spark plugs and wires and did a jerry rig set up with civilian plugs and wires. Is there anyone out that is converting their truck that might part with a set, that they'll not be needing any more?

  6. #56

    Default

    Whiterook,

    This question is probably better suited for the Wanted Classifieds.

  7. #57

    Default

    I was just reading through my build thread to get some inspiration to keep pushing and realized that I never offered up the Solidworks files to those of you interested. I made these models in Solidworks 2013 so shoot me a PM with the file type you’re looking for (.sldprt, .step, .X_T, .igs, .stl, .sat). The file size for the Frame only is 1.5MB.

    The obvious disclaimer:

    All the measuring was done on this one M715 in particular and does not mean that the model will represent the truck you are working on. I spent more time measuring the features that I cared about and less time on the features in between. I never actually built any parts using the model dimensions only, so measure your own truck prior to making or having parts made.


  8. #58

    Default

    I fired up the Big Block without any major issues: a few leaks (water, fuel and oil), nothing that couldn't be tightened up. So far so good, still needs some timing and carb tuning.

    I let the Kaiser stretch its legs a little. Looks like I’ll be able to run the rear shocks outboard of the frame rail. I’m using the stock fuel tank in the stock location with a little bit of surgery. The drive shaft crashes into the tank when the suspension articulates.




  9. #59

    Default

    I finished up the fuel tank mods and dropped in a new 0-90 ohm sending unit. It took a few passes with the welder to get it to seal, not very pretty but it doesn't leak. That was the most frustrating project to date. After that I hit it with the KBS Fuel Tank Sealer Kit for the belt and suspenders effect.

    With the tank in place I realized that I would not be able to remove the fwd leaf spring bolt from that side without dropping the tank, so I drilled a hole through the outside of the frame to allow the bolt to feed from that side.

    That area was starting to look like Swiss cheese…

    I’m using a Jeep J20 Power steering box with a .750 – 30 spline input. I cut the rag joint end off the stock steering shaft and welded on a Borgeson U joint.

    Painted the hood too.










  10. #60

    Default

    Not much tech here but I was double checking shock lengths and mounting positions, also measuring for brake lines.

    Made some front shock hoops. I bought the bent tube (1.5”x .120 wall DOM) from Ruff Stuff, then cut to length and notched them. I built the mounts of out some 1.5” x .219 wall DOM left over from the tie rod/ drag link project. There are two slots in the frame rail right where the shock hoops needed to tie in, so I added some 3/16” bar to cover them up.






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