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Thread: master cylinder Q.

  1. #1

    Default NOS Pass. Door

    my rear pass-side wheel cylinder is leaking and i went to check the fluid but the master c. is like nothing i have ever seen. how do i put fluid in it and how do i know haw much to add??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,519

    Default

    Using a crescent wrench, unscrew the top of the master...disconnecting any vent line connection first of course, then fill till its up to the top so that when you put the top back on, none spills out, just below the lip basically, and you'll be fine.
    Due to the nature of brake fluid, except DOT5, absorping water/humidity, the fluid in there may be pretty gunky if it hasnt been flushed in the last year or 2...might be a good time to do that...manuals recommend every 2 years, completely flush all lines...if you reach in the bottom of the master with your finger and find sludge/sandy stuff, you know it needs it bad.
    brute4c
    brute4c
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Louisville KY
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Yes,as bute4c said. The cap is rather large - about the size of a half dollar. I had never seen a set-up like it before either. It took me a little while thinking about the job before I decided to remove the cap - I had first contemplated trying to add fluid through the vent line.

    Moisture and brake fluid mix very well. If you have not reworked your brakes, I would suggest you buy new wheel cyclinders or at least wheel cyclinder repair kits and go through the brake system before you get it on the road. My truck's brakes were in terrible shape when I purchased it - full of water, dirt and rust. I also replaced the metal brake lines due to corrosion. If I had know its condition at the time, I never would have taken it on the road.

  4. #4

    Default

    thanks , i just didnt wont to jump into it and over fill it or mess anything up. can i get wheel cylinders at any local parts store or are they special order? when i bought the truck it soposedly had fairly new brakes on it, when i took the rear drums off the pads had a lot of meat left on them. should i just replace the cylinder or every thing??
    M715,s..are a mans jeep...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Lone Pine, CA
    Posts
    451

    Default

    I suggest replacing all the cylinders if one was leaking. In the trailer shop we'd never replace one without replacing opposite cylinder (still don't know why).

    Anyhow, look in the parts list under online manuals and you'll find a number for an Econoline wheel cylinder that works great and is only about 15 bucks a piece.

    Also if the master cylinder is remotely questionable, drop in a later style dual circuit master for added safety, about 35 bucks.

    Chris

  6. #6

    Default

    IF one is going the other can't be far behind is the thinking on replacing both or all at the same time....
    The cap on the MC is only suppose to be tighten to hand tight. Do not over tighten it. Its a mill standard thing...
    Zone holster maker

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,519

    Default

    Good point, yeah its a no torque deal...fingers only!!
    brute4c
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  8. #8

    Default

    glad im working so much or i would have alwready f'cked that up, thanks for the heads up..
    M715,s..are a mans jeep...

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