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  #1  
Old January 7th, 2004, 07:36 AM
Nuke_spicergear Nuke_spicergear is offline
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I did this for my 69 camaro, but forget what guage I used. 14 guage (.0747")? It'll have 1"x 1/8" angle welded to it to mount it. I've got a design that 28 gallons.

Thanks
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Old January 7th, 2004, 11:12 AM
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I think the one I saw here was thicker than that... don't know gauges but it was burly, like 20shts of paper thick-- if that helps at all.

that was for a rockpig though. Might not need to be that thick otherwise. A quick perusal of Google gave me nothing useful...
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Old January 7th, 2004, 11:16 AM
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Tom, just a guess that the stock tank is 16 or 18ga. The tailgate and box sides are 14ga the door skin is 20ga? if I remember right.
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Old January 7th, 2004, 01:15 PM
Nuke_spicergear Nuke_spicergear is offline
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Maybe I'll look into 12 guage (.1046"). That ought to be pretty strong.
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Old January 7th, 2004, 01:18 PM
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MOre than enough is always good, may even add an extra layer on the bottom for added protection
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Old January 7th, 2004, 02:44 PM
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Tom: 12 gauge looks pretty swell. Just to note: Jeep offers a factory gas tank skid for the Xj's, it's about 12ga, over the plastic tank. Looks near strong LOL.. of course, it will be tested in Moab, so we'll find out.

Some of the guys in lighter rigs are using nylon skids attached to the skidding parts. They wear out quicker than hell, but they slide and are cheap to guys busting Dana60 hubs every weekend. I can't afford that .
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Old January 7th, 2004, 03:00 PM
hewl35 hewl35 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spicergear
I did this for my 69 camaro, but forget what guage I used. 14 guage (.0747")? It'll have 1"x 1/8" angle welded to it to mount it. I've got a design that 28 gallons.

Thanks
What are you using for a fuel pickup? Some cut out a section from a gas tank to get that recessed seal & mount for the factory pickup. Others have used a generic pickup that uses 6 to 8 1/4 or 1/8" screws.
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Old January 7th, 2004, 07:42 PM
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tom
when i built fuel and hydraulic tanks for forklifts they were made from 10 ga. material. i know that is overkill, but it sure made it easy to weld.
All of our tanks were made for only two pieces. take one hand and cup it with your fingers facing up and the other hand with fingers down. now put them together to form a compartment. understand? like this [ ] but twisted to form a whole box without having to make endpieces. this way you have only 8 seams instead of 12.
of course you will have to find a pressbrake to bend them. and another little tip. when you weld them together, weld the whole seam without stopping. you will have to use a MIG. tack it first silly boy. and yes your hand will get very hot but don't stop. everytime you stop and start you have a potential leak. make some baffles too.
get yourself some weld-flanges for your fuel line and return line.
email me if i can help more or explain better for you to understand. i can draw you a picture
keith
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Old January 7th, 2004, 11:00 PM
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if you weld the seam all at once, don't you get any warping on that?

do you mean, instead of "twisted" that you cut out sort of a cross shape and bend them all down to make 90*angles? Ahh. Never mind! I'm not the one who needs to know

just occurred to me: trap door baffles like in oil pans for roundy round cars might be useful for off road use. I'm going to think on that one.
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Old January 8th, 2004, 05:39 AM
Nuke_spicergear Nuke_spicergear is offline
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My mind is constantly working on baffle design. I'm going to try and use a stock 715 pickup tube and level sender in the top of the tank. In past, I've used the Competition Engineering -8 dual sump but with this I don't want any lines down low. I do need to remember to put a return line in it for future EFI systems.
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