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  #41  
Old January 16th, 2019, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by teberhard View Post
Well here we go... I passed on the m1008. it was just more then I wanted to spend on a 6.2 swap especially when a mechanic I know came across a good running 85 chevy van with a 6.2/700r4 combo. He said if you can pull it you can have it. He told me they are a pain to pull from those vans and he was right. Luckily it didn't have to go back in so out came the torches and sawzall and pulled it this weekend. Ordered novak engine mounts(more as a time saver then anything else).

Going to pull the tornado/t98 this weekend and begin the prep work.

Biggest questions now are the wiring for the 6.2 and the glow pug system. Also, the driveshaft from 700r4 to np200.

Glow plug system I would begin to source/research a manual override/relay system. Simple to install and you no longer have the "glow plug controller/card/fail issues.

AKA You'll push and hold a momentary button switch on the dash for 10 seconds prior to starting... let said button go... turn key to start... VIOLA party on.

I believe the military crowd calls in the Doghead Relay for the m1008.

Driveshaft to np200 will just be an extremely short shaft. measure and contact local driveshaft manufacturer... done.

700r4 while not a towing transmission... the overdrive will save that 6.2 from demise.... good choice.
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  #42  
Old January 16th, 2019, 12:37 PM
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There were 3 distinctly different glow plug systems for the 6.2.

1982-1987 or so civilian trucks had a controller screwed into the drivers side head rear water jacket next to the vacuum pump. A circular plug with 5 or 8 wires attached at the top. Then the relay was over on the drivers fender. It was a mess and you do not want to live with it.

CUCV system. When working, I think it is the best of the bunch. However, it cost a good bit to make them work all the time.

1988 and up. This is the easiest and cheapest option if starting from scratch. It is supposed to bolt to the head above the same water jacket port the old system used to screw into. It is a combination relay and controller all in one. Big battery power wire in and smaller wires out to the glow plugs. With 4 12 gauge wires to turn it on, sense when the starter is used, light up the wait light and ground. I put the part number in my 6 year old thread of putting a 6.2 in my M715. I don't know the part number by memory. Sorry.

The push button self timer thing only really works if you have Delco 60G glow plugs in. Anything else is not self regulating and will probably end up failing, swelling or bursting on you. None are good options.

The Doghead relay is a method to remove the stock GM CUCV starter relay and replace it with a lawn mower relay. It is for the starting system where the 12 and 24 volts parts of the truck mesh and bad things happen if the stock GM heater relay repurposed as a starter relay sticks on. All the magic smoke gets let out normally.


If are getting a 6.2 from a truck. Don't take any wires off the engine. Instead, unbolt the big wire blocks from the firewall where it bolts into the back of the fuse panel. I think it takes a 10 mm socket to get the bolt out. Once unbolted, you will see how the big wire block is actually 3 block puzzle pieces stuck together. Engine is the biggest piece. Front wires and rear wires for the lights are the others. Take it apart and keep all the wires on the engine.

I would also suggest leaving the engine and transmission together as a single unit too. No TV cable recalibration needed then.
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  #43  
Old January 17th, 2019, 05:35 AM
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Thanks for the input. We did leave the wiring on the engine but we cut it instead of unbolting the block at the fire wall. I can get the fuse box if that helps sort things out.

This came out of a 1985 chevy van not a truck. So I guess it has the crappy glow plug system. Any advice how to put it back together right?

We pulled the engine and tranny together but unfortunately my buddies kobota didn't have the balls to lift it into the back of the truck so we had to take the transmission off and unclip the tv cable from the engine cable mount. I was assuming I could just clip this back in and be good. Would it still need to be adjusted in this case?

Also, pulling this engine from the van was like birthing a child so we ended up breaking 2 electrical units on top of the engine towards the rear drivers side. I have no idea what these are or if they are needed.
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  #44  
Old January 17th, 2019, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teberhard View Post
Also, pulling this engine from the van was like birthing a child so we ended up breaking 2 electrical units on top of the engine towards the rear drivers side. I have no idea what these are or if they are needed.
I'm guessing here because I only have a mediocre grasp on Cummins and know just the surface on the 6.2.

My guess is the elec boxes are either glow plug related or no longer a problem as they were VAN related.

The 6.2 being a mechanical injected motor... TECHNICALLY you can run it with just 2 wires (if the glow plugs aren't needed).

My guess there for the van side of things.
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  #45  
Old January 17th, 2019, 08:29 AM
teberhard teberhard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by venominjected View Post
I'm guessing here because I only have a mediocre grasp on Cummins and know just the surface on the 6.2.

My guess is the elec boxes are either glow plug related or no longer a problem as they were VAN related.

The 6.2 being a mechanical injected motor... TECHNICALLY you can run it with just 2 wires (if the glow plugs aren't needed).

My guess there for the van side of things.
That's what I was hoping. I'll see if I can dig up a manual online for a van to identify.
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  #46  
Old January 17th, 2019, 09:21 AM
teberhard teberhard is offline
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Found a full pdf service manual online. That will be invaluable for me. Looks like I crushed the epr and egr solenoids. I have a military 6.2 intake I'll be using so deleting those items anyway.

Looks like the 85 G20 used an integrated glow plug controller/relay with an inhibit switch. Seems kinda straight forward. Not sure if that was the crappy system Barman was referring to? Looks pretty easy to hook up.

Are the 2 wires you were referring to on the IP?
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  #47  
Old January 17th, 2019, 01:39 PM
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Just look at the drivers side head at the rear inside. Next to the vacuum pump basically. If there is a device screwed into the head, it is the old not well thought of system. If it is bolted to the head has a 4 wire straight line Weatherpack connector, it is the good system.

Yes, you should be able to just put the TV cable back in place. Look up how to adjust it just because though.
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  #48  
Old January 18th, 2019, 04:33 AM
teberhard teberhard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
Just look at the drivers side head at the rear inside. Next to the vacuum pump basically. If there is a device screwed into the head, it is the old not well thought of system. If it is bolted to the head has a 4 wire straight line Weatherpack connector, it is the good system.

Yes, you should be able to just put the TV cable back in place. Look up how to adjust it just because though.
Well looks like I have the old style and I damaged the controller when pulling the engine. Did some searches and it looks like I can convert to the newer style. Have you ever done that before? Just looks like mapping some wires and plugging up the hole where the old controller is.
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  #49  
Old January 18th, 2019, 05:46 AM
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Yes, it is pretty easy to do. I converted the 1984 "Bomber" Suburban and it worked perfect everytime.

I set up my M715 with the new system from the start and it has always worked. Same with the Cowdog Suburban.

Just get the relay assembly and the plug that fits it. Screw it to the head after you plug the hole the old controller used. Put both orange wires to each bank of glow plugs on one big lug and power in on the other. Then wire the switch and all will be good.

Since it doesn't touch the coolant, it makes the plugs come on in mild weather every time. I have found unless it is above 85 outside and the engine has been run for a while, the glow plugs are on at start up.
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6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.
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  #50  
Old January 18th, 2019, 06:38 AM
teberhard teberhard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
Yes, it is pretty easy to do. I converted the 1984 "Bomber" Suburban and it worked perfect everytime.

I set up my M715 with the new system from the start and it has always worked. Same with the Cowdog Suburban.

Just get the relay assembly and the plug that fits it. Screw it to the head after you plug the hole the old controller used. Put both orange wires to each bank of glow plugs on one big lug and power in on the other. Then wire the switch and all will be good.

Since it doesn't touch the coolant, it makes the plugs come on in mild weather every time. I have found unless it is above 85 outside and the engine has been run for a while, the glow plugs are on at start up.
Ok, that's what I am going to do. Since its not hooked to the coolant couldn't I hook the ignition wire of the controller to a push button in the cab instead so I could only use it in cold weather or would that be bad?
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