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  #1  
Old July 20th, 2009, 08:03 AM
chrisnwmsu chrisnwmsu is offline
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Default Brakes

I need some help. I bought a 1968 m715 with 14000 miles. I have been driving has is but the brake wheel cylinders are leaking, at least 3 of them. Do I need to order cylinders or can I find something at NAPA that will match up?

What have you guys been seeing on the brake pads? Will mine need to be replaced? I would just a soon not have the jeep down for 3 weeks so I would like to have everything here before I start tearing it apart.

Also what about the brake springs? Will they be reuseable? Or do I try to find new ones?

I have two projects I would like to get done by winter. 1 is the brakes. 2 is fabing a heater for winter driving.

Any help would be great.
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Old July 20th, 2009, 09:20 AM
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The shoes , you will have to see what ya got there...the sprns are pretty hardy...unkess there really rusted or somnething they are probably good.

A bunch of us use wheel cylinders off a Ford application...they have stainless steel pistons and are alomst a bolt in...just a little work and they go on...otherwise same as stock...heres a writeup:

Wheel Cylinder Conversion
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Old July 20th, 2009, 12:21 PM
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Wow, thanks, that will help alot. If the pads look ok I think I can get cylinders changed this weekend. Thanks
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Old July 20th, 2009, 01:43 PM
Fastfrankie Fastfrankie is offline
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Just a fyi. My brake cylinders were leaking. When I got the drums off, the brake shoes/linings were soaked with brake fluid and were full of grease/asbestos muck.

Even though the shoes had plenty of life left, I went with new shoes on all fours since even with cleaning the shoe linings with Brake-Kleen, they were shot from being saturated.

Figure $200 for new shoes from Memphis Equipment plus shipping them your cores and four new E-250 Ford wheel cylinders. You might as well put new brake hoses on while your at it and even a new master. You'll have about $300 in parts for your brakes!
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 08:17 AM
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Got my cylinders in the mail today. Ordered the F250 ones. Now I just need to tear it apart and see what the pads look like. If they are wet from fluid are they ruined?
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:04 AM
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I'd say if they are completely soaked then replace them. If they will clean up with brake cleaner and dry out well enough, then keep them. I was able to find a local shop to reline each shoe for 9.00 apiece. It was cheap and now I have no worries. I'm sure you've read all the threads on marking your drums prior to disassembly. That's a very important step. Don't ask me how I know.
I too needed an adapter for the front cyl's. Made things so tight I have opted to rebuild the originals and go back to them. Good luck and post some pic's when you can.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:22 AM
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I would agree with that!
Just a little addition...if any of the axle seals has leaked and the shoe is grease packed and its been run a while that way...like burned into the shoe, dont try to clean it, just replace...the grease seems to get in to where it is an integral part of the shoe after a while and several thermal cycles.
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fng View Post
I'd say if they are completely soaked then replace them. If they will clean up with brake cleaner and dry out well enough, then keep them. I was able to find a local shop to reline each shoe for 9.00 apiece. It was cheap and now I have no worries. I'm sure you've read all the threads on marking your drums prior to disassembly. That's a very important step. Don't ask me how I know.
I too needed an adapter for the front cyl's. Made things so tight I have opted to rebuild the originals and go back to them. Good luck and post some pic's when you can.
What do you mean by marking the drum?
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 10:58 AM
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There are 3 screws that hold the drum to the hub. Therefore, there are 3 different ways the drum can go back on the hub. I don't think they used a jig to drill the holes in the drums at the factory. TLAR method must have been used. Because of that, if you put the drum on a different way, you have a good chance of it being out round with the stationary and centered shoes.

Remove one screw, hit that screw hole with spray paint, use a number punch to mark the drum and screw, etc...
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Old July 23rd, 2009, 11:01 AM
chrisnwmsu chrisnwmsu is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
There are 3 screws that hold the drum to the hub. Therefore, there are 3 different ways the drum can go back on the hub. I don't think they used a jig to drill the holes in the drums at the factory. TLAR method must have been used. Because of that, if you put the drum on a different way, you have a good chance of it being out round with the stationary and centered shoes.

Remove one screw, hit that screw hole with spray paint, use a number punch to mark the drum and screw, etc...
thats what you figured you meant but I thought I had better check.

Thanks
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