Picked One Up- Questions...

[97XJSP]

i picked up a 68 in great shape but it needs a few small things. i am worried about the brakes. they stop pretty well but the pedal travels nearly to the floor. the previous owner suspected the master cylinder. i dont know much about the older, non power systems... that was before my time ha ha. i haven't had a chance to see if pumping the pedal builds up firmness or not. it's pretty firm once it gets near the floor and does stop pretty well. perhaps the shoes need adjusting? how could i tell if the MC is any good?
also, the speedometer just spins around and around... any ideas on that?
last thing is that the blinkers don't work, not even sure whats wrong, the previous owner just said they didn't work. the truck is 100 miles away from me right now so i haven't had much chance to play with it. i'm suspecting the switch, any ideas where/how to check?

also, is there anything i need to be aware of for parade driving? i'm going to be in a small parade on saturday, just want to make sure i dont do any no-no's. can you put the t-case in 2wd low range or can you only have 4wd low range?
Thanks!

[randyscycle]

For safety's sake, pull all four wheels and have a look.

Just about everyone here has been down this road and can almost tell you the same thing. At least 2-3 of the wheel cylinders will be locked up with rust. A couple of the shoes will probably be to the rivets. The adjusters will most likely be siezed, and the steel lines should probably be replaced too.


A dual master cylinder conversion isn't a bad investment either.

[vacca rabite]

I have to echo what Randy said.
Assume your brakes are totally shot, and move on from there. Replace the cylinders at all four corners. Replace the master cylinder with a dual master. Replace the rubber lines - which will likely force you to replace your steel lines.

All in all, you will likely spend about $300 on brakes, but when you are done you will have a totally new brake system.

First time I drove my truck, I nearly put it through my neighbors living room when the brakes failed. Don't take the chance.

I've been wrong before, but I think with the Tcase selector you can do 2wd low. That said, I never have.

Zach

[Snuffy]

I'd replace the master cylinder and do a full brakes once over. Stopping to me is more important than how fast it will go - get out of trouble faster then you get into it. Likely OEM stuff on the truck.

Sounds like the internals on the speedo gauge are shot.

Flasher 'box' is located in the engine compartment to the left of the MC. Check all of the wiring/bulbs first - then the directional switch - then the box. I got a new directional switch (newer/different MV) and new signal box for about $100.

The t-case allows for 2wd low.

Snuffy

It's your call on the parade.

[amphi]

For safety's sake, pull all four wheels and have a look.

Good advice -- but before you do this, make sure you mark the drums so they can be reinstalled on the same wheel with the same orientation on the studs.

It's in the manuals somewhere.

See this thread:

Rear brake drums, should I turn em

[SAC715]

My truck stopped ok but one of the wheel cylinders started leaking, so i decided to just change all of them out. What I found scared the !@#$ out of me... Not one of them could be pressed in or out and the inside looked like they were full of muck (Just brake fluid and corrosion).I really don't know what stopped this thing. I wouldn't take it on a parade yet, not until you learn your trucks little quirks. Wouldn't want to hurt someone.

Tim W.

[97XJSP]

Thanks for the advice.
i'm pretty sure the previous owner put all new wheel cylinders and shoes in it. he kept it in good shape. but, i guess i wont really know until i take a look at them when i switch the michelins back on. i'm not real familiar with full floating axles and i'm sure i can figure it out but are there any tricks i need to know about when pulling the drums? (other than marking them) also, just in case, i'm assuming the e-brake is a fairly simple adjustment? it holds the truck pretty well but i want it set with plenty of grab for now with the single cyl MC.

[b-tyme]

E-brake is on the back of the transfer case. When you go to pull off the drums mark them. You may have to invest in an impact driver with the screwdriver tips to get the drums off. Just remember to have fun with it. Its not worth the trouble if you dont.

[97XJSP]

yeah, i know where it's located i just haven't had a chance to check out the adjuster. i'm bummed... i had to drive it to my parents then park it and leave to go back to my apartment for the week. i wish i could just walk out and crawl under it and see for myself. that's why i'm asking so many questions... i'm only going to have a short amount of time to go work on it. otherwise i'd just go look
thanks for the help guys!

[randyscycle]

You won't have to fiddle with any axles on these old Dana diffs. The drums slide off after removing the wheels and screws that hold the drums to the hubs.

Like Amphi posted and I forgot to mention, do mark the drums so that they go back on exactly as they come off. If not, you'll have a pulsation issue afterward. I just punch marked mine to their respective hubs.