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Thread: Adjusting hub bearings: Question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Portlandia, Oregon USA
    Posts
    202

    Default Adjusting hub bearings: Question

    Getting ready to put all four hubs back on my 725 re-geared factory axles and then adjusting the hub bearing play. My first time doing this on this truck- and before I start, any tips on getting about the right amount of adjustment? The maintenance manuals say to "adjust inner adjusting nut until wheel binds"- "then back off one-sixth turn until wheel turns freely".

    My simple question is: Do I feel for binding with the wheel/tire on the hub - or off??

    This is from the manual:
    a. General. Refer to the Operator s Manual, TM 9-2320-244-10, for daily maintenance instructions. b. Wheel Bearing Adjustment,
    (1) Remove nuts and lock washers which secure axle shaft and/or driving flange to hubs,
    (2) Remove axle shaft and/or driving flange and gaskets.
    (3) Remove outer lock nut and lock washer.
    (4) Rotate hub, and using Tool FSN 5120-168-2286, (fig 2-88) adjust inner adjusting nut until wheel binds.
    (5) Back off adjusting nut one-sixth turn until wheel turns freely.
    (6) Install lock washer and outer lock nut and tighten. Bend lockwasher to secure nut.
    (7) Position new gasket on hub and install axle shaft and/or driving flange.
    (8) Install lock washer and nuts which secure axle shaft and/or driving flange to hub and tighten to 32-50 lbs-ft.
    1969 M725 ambulance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    If you have the wheel on, you will have more leverage, which will allow you to "ignore" more binding. I always do it with just the hub.

    Just torque it until you feel more drag while turning the hub, then back the nut off a bit.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikel View Post
    If you have the wheel on, you will have more leverage, which will allow you to "ignore" more binding. I always do it with just the hub.

    Just torque it until you feel more drag while turning the hub, then back the nut off a bit.
    That's pretty much what I did after I repacked my front wheel bearings. Works fine, stood the test of a computerized alignment rack about two weeks ago.

  4. #4

    Default

    When I rebuilt the hubs on my M101A1 trailer I had the wheels on. The manual seemed to indicate they were to be on and I had a better feel for binding. I was really concerned with this and started with the wheels off but felt more sure with them on.
    Jonnie

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Portlandia, Oregon USA
    Posts
    202

    Default Thanks

    Thanks for the input on this. Much appreciated!

    Cheers,
    Bryce
    1969 M725 ambulance

  6. #6

    Default

    Just wanted to add: with the wheel on I could give it a spin and count rotations, this helped me determine binding. But I am far from an expert.
    Jonnie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Anchorage, AK
    Posts
    414

    Default

    Later d60, not the closed-knuckle, but:

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...g-preload.html

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