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Old June 3rd, 2008, 11:56 AM
Warthog's Avatar
Warthog Warthog is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Midwest City, OK
Posts: 639
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Default Wheel Cylinder Conversion

Hey Jon, do you want to add this to the Manuals Section?

Brake Cylinder Conversion to a
’93 Ford E350 Cylinder
Tru Torque W37262 and W37263 available at most auto parts stores

I know that many of us have done this conversion and fumbled our way thru it.

I have the privilege of being mechanically inclined by learning from my dad many years ago. Wow… it’s been 34 years now, I sure miss him

I read most of the postings about this conversion and understood them but thought others might be confused.

This is not the only way of doing this….your mileage may vary…..

After jacking up the truck, secure the jack stands (everyone should use jack stands) and remove the tire.

Remove the three retaining screws. If they are stubborn (which they all are) try using the biggest screwdriver you have. Hit it with a hammer as you try tightening the screw. I know that sounds strange but by tightening the screw it will help break the rust bond.

Remove the brake drum. You may have to back off the shoes with the starwheel.
This is what most of us find.

Inspecting the wheel cylinder you will likely find corrosion. The brakes won’t work if they look like this.

Remove all the hardware. I also removed the hub because I was also repacking the bearings.

This is the mounting plate with the new wheel cylinder before elongating the mounting holes.

This is the mounting plate after elongating the holes. I used a Dremel tool but a round file works just as well.

The new wheel cylinder mounted

All the hardware mounted.

All that is left is reinstalling the drum, applying anti-seize to the retaining screws, adjusting the shoes with the star wheel and bleeding the brakes.

Until next time,
Wart Hog
Live like you will die tomorrow. Dream like you will live forever!!!
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