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Thread: Master Cylinder Conversion - Upgrade

  1. #1

    Default Master Cylinder Conversion - Upgrade

    Hey Jon, do you want to add this to the manuals section?

    Upgrade of Master Cylinder to Dual Cylinder

    I know that many of us have done this conversion and fumbled our way thru it. This has been discussed many time but I have never seen any step by step with pictures. (Who needs instructions, just show me a picture)

    I have the privilege of being mechanically inclined by learning from my dad many years ago. Wow… it’s been 34 years now, I sure miss him

    I read most of the postings about this conversion and understood them but thought others might be confused.

    This is not the only way of doing this….your mileage may vary…..

    Some of the links on conversions:
    Hey, Lets talk BRAKES some more!!!!

    and many more. Just do a search on master cylinder


    I chose to use the late 60’s early 70’s master cylinder. Mainly because it was in stock.

    Here is my parts list:

    Master Cylinder #10-1331 - $16 plus $10 core

    Napa 3/16 Union Inverted Flair – Female 3/8”-24 Inverted - BK 641-3290 $1.29 - far left
    Weather Head 3/8” Inverted Flair - Plug - #131x3 - $1.79


    I used these fittings because I was cutting my line to length and wanted to cut down on connections
    Napa Brake Line Fitting 1/2”-20, BK 641-3321 $3.95
    Napa Brake Line Fitting 9/16”-18, BK 641-3323 $3.95
    .

    If you buy ready made lines you will need these adapters. They are pictured on the right
    Napa 9/16” Adapter – BK 641-3309 $3.49
    Napa 1/2” Adapter – BK 641-3305 $1.99

    3/16” steel brake line ~$5
    1/4” steel break line. ~$5
    (I purchased a 51” line because I was bending my own and I knew I would mess up, which I did. lol)



    Remove you old Master Cylinder and mount the new one



    Remove the line going to the rear cylinders and the line going to the master cylinder.



    Install the plug going to the rear ( I removed the block to clean it and for pictures)



    I used a coat hanger to get the general shape of my brake lines. There are many website that talk about making the brake lines. Just Google it.

    Here is the end result. I chose to not install a booster at this time.







    Notice the single fittings at the master cylinder?


    All that is left is to bench bleed the M/C and bleed the system

    Until next time
    Wart Hog
    Live like you will die tomorrow. Dream like you will live forever!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Paron, Arkansas
    Posts
    295

    Default There you go.

    Your an allright guy! Keep your day job, nobody will ever hire you to write instruction manuals, you are too understandable. Thanks for this post, I have been meaning to do that but kept putting it off, not much longer now.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

    Default

    Thank you!! That is the BEST post I have seen on converting the master cylinder...it wont get lost!
    Great pics too!!!

  4. #4

    Default

    Awesome post!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    northern Arizona
    Posts
    1,025

    Default

    Great write-up. I would recommend painting the master, as it will quickly cover with surface rust. Mine did.
    67 M725 67 M715 68 M715

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Washington State
    Posts
    1,652

    Default

    You ever get brake fluid on paint. If you paint it and your top gasket of your masker cylinder weeps, like most do. You will end up with a gummy mess all over your master. Wipe it down with some pb or wd and it will keep the rust at bay for awhile.

  7. #7

    Default

    One thing I forgot to mention.

    After installing the M/C, doen't forget to adjust the pedal stop bolt on the top of the Brake Pedal Support Bracket (item #6 from figure 2-86, page 179 of the Oranizational Maintenance Manual -20).

    This is a 1/2" bold that will adjust the excess play from the pedal. I had about 3/4" to 1" of play and I adjusted it to about 1/4"-1/2" of travel before the push rod engages the M/C piston.

    No telling how yours has been adjusted over the years.

    Wart Hog
    Live like you will die tomorrow. Dream like you will live forever!!!

  8. #8

    Default

    Bookmarked so I can stop at Napa tomorrow with a new shopping list. May as well renue the entire brake system this weekend. new brakes for the Porsche AND the 715.

    Zach

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    This is so funny as I had just ordered that very master cylinder and several of those adapter parts for my own upgrade! Got a remanufactured m/c though, so I am bringing it back since I ordered a new one from NAPA. Picking it up, and the rest of the adapters, at NAPA in a couple hours.
    -- Tim Taylor


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Port Orchard, Wash.
    Posts
    4,572

    Default

    Done.




    One of the easiest upgrades I've ever had to do.
    -- Tim Taylor


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