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Thread: Solid motor mounts?

  1. #11

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    As strong as our frames are...why do you think you can't get the doors open when you've got the suspension all crossed up on a hard trail. Frame Flex. As that flex acts on the cab, that flex acts on the engine block casting which is very stong, but is CAST iron, not steel, which makes it not want to give...ANY, but just flat break. If you've got a driver and no lockers and it's a road truck...solids will be fine. I'm with Barry on the new weaklinks...you bust that rat motor cause you didn't want to adapt a pair of cheap GM captured pin mounts and you'll feel pretty stupid.
    Big Blocks RULE!

  2. #12

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    Indeed. I guess you hippies are right- the only reason that I'd do it was to save some time. I looked at the mounts again last night and it seems that it would be just as easy to change my current mounts as it would be to weld on solid mounts.

    Just tossing out ideas.

    Thanks all,
    -B.

  3. #13

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    Brian,

    After all the good advice listed so far, I'm not going to suggest the solid mounts are the way to go, but if you are interested there is a close up picture of mine under Rollie715 in the Members Gallery. I did not cut the original frame perch and found that with the bigblock there was very little room to make a large rubber encased mount. I cut down the pieces that bolt to the block and drilled a new hole in it for the big bolt. The part I fabricated you can barely see consists of about a 4" square of 1/4" plate with a piece of pipe welded to it. The 4" square bolts to the frame perch using two bolts through the original perch holes and the pipe piece is bolted to the Chevy mount using a long bolt. You can see the head of the long bolt in the picture. This style is almost an exact copy of what Novak had been selling for years.

    Rollie

  4. #14

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    Rollie,

    I see what you mean. I wonder how much different that mount would be than what I have now as far as vibration dampening. Yours sits about 2" higher than mine does as my mount is just a pieve of plate steel with a bolt through it, a doughnut, and then through the frame horn. The only spacer is the doughnut and it is only about 1.5" or so thick.
    Hmmmmm....
    Thanks for the idea. I need to pull the motor and see what I can do about it all.
    -B.

  5. #15

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    Brian,

    I think your donut idea will work fine, but you might want to add a second donut and large washer on the bottom side of the perch and use a longer bolt. Then you would have a cushioning affect in both torque directions. Also a locking nut or cotter key to hold the nut on might be good.

    Rollie

  6. #16

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    DaveA has e-mailed me with the option that he's looking into- a '72 Chevy 2wd pickup with the v8. He said the motor mount is stuck to the frame horns via a large bolt and that they use your style of horizontal bolt.
    He pointed out that that bolt could be replaced with one that has a pointed end and thus it would be a slide in to help alight the motor. Nice. He said they were cheap too.

    I'm gonna pull my 350 saturday and then check into all this and try to get some sort of cheap motor mount that is easy to use. I think it would be nice if a newbie could get a part number from here and walk into any auto parts store and get a motor mount that needs no mods to use and is simple.

    If it all goes the way it did last time I swapped my motor and I end up using the motor mounts I have now, then I'll use your double doghnut idea. The bolt is already as big of one as will fit through the horn slots and is grade 8. I'll also add the safety wire.

    Thanks,
    -B.

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