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Thread: Flasher/turn signal bulb

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Mt. Prospect, Illinois 60056
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    2,299

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    Was at NAPA yesterday to pick up the 1683 turn signal/flasher rear taillight bulb. Was going to get a couple of spare 1251's but the store only sells them in unopened boxes of 10. $30.00 + tax. I'll order a few online I guess, just to have as spares. I really don't need 10 laying around. Used di-electric grease on bulbs and sockets before reinstalling them. Will get around to doing the same on other side.
    militarypotts Spec/4 Military Police, Vietnam Era, "Does the noise in my head bother you? Welcome to the Twilight Zone!"

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

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    When I first bought my truck, 3 out of 4 of the light housings were 1/4 or more filled with water...and corroded to beat the band inside...little more than condensation...nasty stuff too.
    Last edited by brute4c; June 26th, 2011 at 09:42 AM.
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Rhoadesville, Virginia (five miles from no place)
    Posts
    5,125

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    One thing I found really helped to get the screws loose in the housings was some very precise and very directed heat from a propane torch at the housing where the screws thread in. Gently heat and then let them cool naturally a few times. Add a little penetrating oil as well, then reheat. Gentle is the operative word, as too much heat will melt the lens for the blackout light, being made of plastic.

    A heat gun might also work well as it could direct the heat a bit better. Just be patient, and if the screw does move, work it back and forth slowly, using a screwdriver with a very good tip that fits the screws well.
    "Free advice is worth what you pay for it."™

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
    Posts
    32

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyscycle View Post
    One thing I found really helped to get the screws loose in the housings was some very precise and very directed heat from a propane torch at the housing where the screws thread in. Gently heat and then let them cool naturally a few times. Add a little penetrating oil as well, then reheat. Gentle is the operative word, as too much heat will melt the lens for the blackout light, being made of plastic.

    A heat gun might also work well as it could direct the heat a bit better. Just be patient, and if the screw does move, work it back and forth slowly, using a screwdriver with a very good tip that fits the screws well.
    So, what about the sockets? My sockets are really badly rusted. Can I get just the sockets or do I have to replace the the whole turn signal/blackout light?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 1998
    Location
    North Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    11,520

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    Never seen the parts separate...unless someone has one they would part out...
    Lord send your Holy Ghost into our hearts and make the desire of our hearts Your Will.

    Pro-choice, that's a LIE, babies don't choose to die!!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

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    I have done it. What a pain. Besides getting the screws to come out without breaking off in the housing, 40% success rate for me. You have to have good bulb holders to put back in there. Which means another bucket to start with.

    Once the bulb holder is loose, the wires have to come out for it to be removed. If all 3 wires had good insulation and good Packard connectors to start with. They probably won't once you are done working them through the probably soon to break grommets at the back of the housing. Then you get to put it back together.

    Yes, the wires can be cut or heat released from the bulb holder. Even with that, it is a very labor intensive job when a complete new assembly can be had for less than $50. What is your time worth?
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

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  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
    Posts
    32

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    Yeah. I think I'm just going to buy 4 new ones. What about the small light by the right rear taillight. Is that a blackout light?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Giddings, Texas
    Posts
    7,729

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    Yes it is. Black out brake light actually. All M vehicles had it until they went to the composite "big bucket" lights near the end of M715 production.

    As near as I can tell. The M715 was the last military vehicle made entirely with the small bucket lights its entire production run. The Gama Goat and M151 are the other contenders. Every thing else was produced for years afterwards with the big buckets.

    So, M38A1's are good sources of the black out brake lights.
    Remember if you didn't build it you can't call it yours.

    6.2 powered M715, 5 M1009's, M416, 2 M101's, 2 M105's, 3 M35's, M1007 6.5 turbo Suburban project called Cowdog.

    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCz...HGkBCfhXZ5iuaw

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
    Posts
    32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrman View Post
    Yes it is. Black out brake light actually. All M vehicles had it until they went to the composite "big bucket" lights near the end of M715 production.

    As near as I can tell. The M715 was the last military vehicle made entirely with the small bucket lights its entire production run. The Gama Goat and M151 are the other contenders. Every thing else was produced for years afterwards with the big buckets.

    So, M38A1's are good sources of the black out brake lights.
    Thank you. When I took the cover off of it water ran out. I'll get a new one of those too.

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