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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by warthog on Apr 11, 2006, 10:03am

I'm liftin my 715. In the rear, I'm flipping the front hanger over and then flip down the rear shackle. When I was pulling the leafs off on both driver and pass side. The rear hangers are where I have the question. Are they supposed to be solid? The shaft will pull out about 1", but will not come all the way out and can be rotated. When pulled out the 1", it does not sit at a 90 degree from the frame, will slant down. When I looked, from the inside of the frame, between the frame and riveted plate, I can see the end of the shaft, but it does not appear to have been welded to the frame. Is is supposed to be?

I have flipped through all the manuals trying to get better details on the rear hanger, but I have not been able to find a breakdown of the actual hanger.

I'm also planning to have the frame hot dipped (galvanized) in zinc. The company will do it for $500, but they said due to the year the frame might warp. Do ya'll think the frame would be alright? The tank temp is 853 degrees. I figured with it being a hvy duty frame, it shouldn't be a problem. The frame is good, no rusted through areas and I have been all over it with a pick to make sure.

Prior to the server problem, the regular site and all ya'lls posts and links have been Very helpful in reworking my 715.

Thanks for any help, Dan
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by 40grit on Apr 11, 2006, 11:26am

not sure about the hanger, but I would be interested in knowing about the hot dip...I'm heading toward doing that in a little while..
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by warthog on Apr 11, 2006, 12:06pm

http://www.hotdipgalvanizing.com/process/diagram.html

This a link that gives some explaination of the galvanizing process. Called this place but they won't do auto frames. Said they explode to easily, due to trapped air in boxed sections of frame.

The place I will be taking it to (in Newark, NJ) said you don't have to bust any rust off the frame. The acid tickler takes care of all the rust and the caustic dip removes all grease and most paint. To me this will be a major time saver, as I don't know how to get into the boxed section to derust and paint. Quoted $500 (minimum) for the whole process as long as it isn't heavy than 500 lbs.
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by 40grit on Apr 11, 2006, 1:38pm

hey, no need to pre-sand blast is great news...
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by 40grit on Apr 11, 2006, 1:48pm

I'd even think a few holes made in the top of the frame for vent holes wouldn't hurt if they are concerned about trapped air....
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by warthog on Apr 11, 2006, 2:29pm

The guy said when I get closer to bringin it to them he can point out some key areas to to put some 3/8" holes and not compromise the frame interity.
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by warthog on Apr 12, 2006, 9:13am

I figure on drillin a 7/8" hole on the inside of the frame and slip the shaft into it. Then weld the spring hangers solid. Don't really want them wobbly back there as I'm slippin rockwells under the truck.
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:29 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by boghog on Apr 12, 2006, 9:19am

Warthog, I have had two frames done by V&S, up here in MI. the price was for a min. weight. I did both frames seperate. One was a CJ-5 frame, the other a CJ-7 frame, both came out perfect. Had no "boxed" or "captured" areas in the stock part of the frame. I did have a custom front end welded to the CJ-7 frame that consisted of a front bumper, shackle reverse spring perch,tow bar set-up all in one. I just made sure that the 2"x4" tube bumper had drain holes at both ends. They did state that you cant have any areas that can trap air! I was talking with one guy at the location I use about dipping the sheet metal. He told me that they dipped a Ford Ranger hood and it came out fine, no distortion. I was also talking with a fellow zoner, who I lost contact with, from the west side of Mi. We were trying to set up a group type of deal that would save some money. I think he could not wait for me and went a different way. That seems to be the down fall of a group to do this everybody is at a different part of the rebuild process. Back to my two dipped frames. the frames had to have all the tapped holes chased, and the drips that fall from the frame need to be nocked off, its like knocking off wax drippings only harder. I used a file as to not knock off to much, just took the drips or bumps down smooth. Once the other guys I work with saw how the frame looked some of them jumped on the band wagon. The next time I went in, with the CJ-7 frame the price jumped 200%. After talking to the guy and telling him how I helped his biz and that agroup of guys in a club that I was in want to try this he gave me a break. I was thinking of dipping the whole 715 bed. The cargo doors would have to come off, would like to pull the hinge pin if poss. the lower T/G hinges also, and the chains. We even talked about the cab and doors, the big question was if there were any air pockets. He agreed to do a wagoneer door for free to see how it worked out. Now that I have a few spare doors I was thinking about getting in touch with him again. It sure would be nice to do the body barts. After seeing the two frames I had done, I think the truck would last forever! I painted one frame with a two part epoxy paint made for galvanized coatings. It was made by Rustoleum. Also ask him, on the phone, Better yet have a friend call him from another phone and ask him, how is the price charged?, by the hundred weight? Most likly the hundred wgt. then ask what is the turn around time. Figure out the weight of your frame, and add all the other parts you can to bring the weight up to the min. wire the parts on with some heavy steel wire, like 3/16" so they wont fall off, (they wont fish them out of the bottom of the galvanizing tank) Good luck
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:30 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by boghog on Apr 12, 2006, 9:25am

One more thing. try to get all of your frame mods and welding done first. It a shame to have to compromise the coating for something that could of been done prior to dipping. plus as we all know the fumes from the coating when welding and cutting are killers. Please keep us posted here on the board. I think others may also try this. Good Luck again.
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Old November 10th, 2009, 08:30 PM
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Re: Spring Hanger & galvanize
Post by warthog on Apr 12, 2006, 10:15am

V&S here is the ones who said they won't touch auto frames. The Galvanizing & Tinning works said it is a min. of $500 for 500 lbs., then $50 per 100 lbs over that. They currently have a turn around of 7-10 days, but are very busy right now. Normally it is 5 days. Their kettle is 45'6"x5'2"x6'2". They do a lot of industrial dipping and 18-wheeler trailer frames. Thanks for the idea of wire wrapping parts to it. Was planning to get majority of the weldin & grindin in and majority assembled, then disassemble before takin it to them.

Thanks for the info. I'll definately post some pics of the after dip, when I get it done.
 

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