Dummy needs wiring help.

[white433]

I got "mad", "smart", "disgusted", and pulled the harness out of a project, getting a 292. It was hacked on, crusty, and a mess. I am going to re-wire it all, if I only knew how to start! I have checked the search archives, and still need help. I am going to use the stock on-off switch, a foot starter with only 2 poles on it, a chevy starter and alternator, pointless distributor and a battery. If someone could instruct like, Battery cable to starter- starter to---, I would be gratefull. I can handle wiring-up the lights and stuff, but get confused about things like the charging system and that other important stuff. I got lots of wire and good connectors, thanks.

[amphi]

Here is a clip form rboltz wiring diagram in the Online Maintenance Manuals at the top of the main page. It shows the area you are asking about.

The battery cut-off switch is optional and you will use only one battery for 12v. Otherwise this should work if you use the stock foot switch with no starter solenoid. If you plan to use a solenoid I can draw it in for you.

If this is not clear and you need more please ask. We will do our best to help.



Link to the diagram PDF:
http://www.m715zone.com/vb/pages/man...g_modified.pdf

[amphi]

Basically it goes like this:

One heavy wire FROM battery + TO one side of the foot switch.

One heavy wire FROM the starter TO the other side of the foot switch. If the starter has a built-in solenoid , you'll need a jumper. We'll do this later if needed.

One wire FROM the B+ foot switch or B+ battery terminal TO both terminals B and D on the ignition switch (jumper is ok).

One wire FROM terminal A on the ignition switch TO the + terminal on the coil.

One wire FROM the other side of the coil TO the distributor

One wire FROM the large terminal on the alternator TO B+ foot switch or B+ battery terminal.

One wire FROM terminal C on the ignition switch TO the excitation terminal on the alternator (we'll need to know more about the alternator to identify this)



Would someone please add to this info, like terminal numbers on the alternator and recommended wire sizes etc.

[brute4c]

Stock battery cables are 2 or 4 gauge...

The rest of the wires, besides battery to foot switch, starter to foot switch and the large wire to the alternator, on a stock truck, are all 14 gauge cores with a 12 gauge sheathing...so either 12 or 14 gauge would work.

The on/off switch, as it is mounted in the dash, has 4 wires...a left and a right column, each with a top and bottom wire...as you sit in the truck, the 2 wires that are closer to the steering column are both numbered as #11. They come from, basically, the foot starter switch, on the side the battery hooks to.
The other 2 wires on the on/off switch, the ones toward the dash:
The top one goes to the ignition...coil positive, wire number #12.
The lower one is the small wire from the alternator, the excite wire...mine says #468, others say #568 on this wire.

[white433]

Well, the way I had figured out to wire it, may have been more like an "Atomic Collider", than a workable starting, charging system. I can't say I completly understand it, yet. Will keep studying it. My problem is I don't understand how the alternator charges the battery back through the system? My goal now is to understand the whole system, instead of just hooking-up wires, others may be in the same boat. If you who understand it, would be so good, keep typing, thanks.

[white433]

To be more clear on my confusion, Why, what does the #5 wire go back to the switch by way of #11, and why to the slave recp., where to #4?

[amphi]

The drawing I grabbed the above clip from is a very early and obsolete version of the wiring diagram.

Sorry!! It is confusing.

Can a Moderator please replace it with this one?




I will work on a visual representation of current flow to help with the understanding the charging and ignition circuits.

[Barrman]

Um, the foot starter leaves you several options. Wired like the picture directly above, you have to have a permanent jumper wire from the solenoid to the power cable on the starter. If you are using a regular Chevy starter with the 292.

The above picture is perfect for stock 230 or stock Ford style starters.

The problem with the permanent jumper wire is this. What if the foot switch breaks? You have no way to "hot wire" the truck. The way I got around it is this:

Run power to the foot switch. From the same post the power is, run power to the starter motor. Then run the small solenoid wire from the starter to the other post on the foot switch. This will allow you to still start the engine with a screw driver if needed. Plus, less power going through the foot switch means in theory that it should last longer.

[amphi]

This is an attempt to show charging, starting, and ignition current flow in theory. The actual flow can be different depending on battery charge level and alternator output but this is the concept.

Red arrows for starting and ignition current.
Green arrows for charging current.



The method described by Barrman is the best way to wire the starting circuit.

I can draw this if you choose to use the solenoid.

Hope this helps.

[amphi]

To be more clear on my confusion, Why, what does the #5 wire go back to the switch by way of #11, and why to the slave recp., where to #4?

Wire #4, #5, #11 and others come together in factory splice(s) somewhere for distribution of battery power. I don't know exactly where this is located but I'm sure someone will post up with its location.

The slave receptacle is used for jump-starting instead of jumper cables and may be used to power other things from the battery. You may or may not have one. I've not seen one on a M715.