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Thread: Camper Special

  1. #161
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    Oct 2009
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    Methuen, MA
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    Blitz, I'm still looking into that controller, "if grounding is necessary" is the question, under what conditions is grounding required by the charge controller?

    Another good resource and prices is http://www.battery1234.com/

    Some progress on the truck, I got the lokar shifter from Kamikaze12volts.

    Here it is in place, still have to do the linkages, kickdown and dipstick.


    The tcase shifter will be about a foot back from the stock shifters location.
    With the lokar shifter, the high steer arm these are the only 2 aftermarket parts in the build, so far everything is either jeep, dodge or the axles chevy. Up next are gauges and rear caliper brackets but that's it so far for aftermarket.

    Also painted the gas, now diesel tank with por 15 along with the straps.


    The sending unit looks good, I'm constantly amazing at how good the condition of this truck.

  2. #162
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Palestine TEXAS
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    1,120

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    Quote Originally Posted by Panther View Post
    Blitz, I'm still looking into that controller, "if grounding is necessary" is the question, under what conditions is grounding required by the charge controller?

    Another good resource and prices is http://www.battery1234.com/

    The grounding WOULD become an issue....
    IF You used Your trucks starting / RUN engine batteries, and this charge controller connected to them.

    Every appliance and accessory connected to the vehicles grounding system, wound "ground" the charge controller...
    and thats what you dont want, according to the mnfg.

    You should dedicate 2 to 6 batteries to this charge controller and solar, Isolated from the vehicles 'ground' system.

    ( house batteries separate from Starting/ run batteries )

    From this bank of house batteries, I would not attempt to run any 12 or 24 volt DC vehicle spotlights, fans, start the engine, jump start or even run radios, unless I disconnected the charge controller at a quick disconnect fitting, or switch that I cant forget about.


    1.Isolate or float the ground DC voltage from the house batteries, not connecting that bank to the vehicle chassis anywhere.

    2.Connect Your charge controller/ solar and AC inverter to this bank... and there is Your isolated system 115 volts, charging during use.

    3.If you want to run low voltage DC directly from the battery bank to the vehicle, in any way....

    I think a physical connect and disconnect harness should be used, where the charge controller is disconnected by one fitting, to plug in your direct 12/ 24 volt feed "out" harness" into that same , now empty , fitting.

    No mistakes that way, and You can now use all of the vehicles components, but the solar wont be charging the bank at that time.

    Anderson connectors are pretty darn good.

    These are 50 amps..., plenty for a DC charging and DC accessory RUN system.

    http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...es-50-amp.html

    For jump starting, or pulling more amps ( like between battery interconnects, or to the inverter )
    I would go the 350 amp version and at minimum of 1/0 welding cable.
    http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-po...s-350-amp.html

    This will allow you to add more bank and amps and a larger inverter in the future, and honestly You need those amps almost right now as you are set up, with 3 batteries.

    You cant hook these up backwards either.... and can make a separate tap for 12 AND 24 volts, as your appliances/ accessories require, color coded or physical connection "keyed".

    Need to pull something out of the system, it takes about 2. 4 seconds to disconnect any component.


    I didnt go to the other web page yet, to check out their wares.

    Its gonna be hard to beat the pricing You already found.
    hostis est intra portas tuas

  3. #163
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    Aug 2013
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    Palestine TEXAS
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    Yep, you still have the better price with the Renogy 100 watt starter kit panel. ( Your first choice and link posted a few posts back. https://www.renogy-store.com/100W-Mo...tarter100d.htm ) by a hundred bucks !! not even including the controller . ( compared to the link You just posted )

    The Sun Force charge controller listed on the second page You referenced, is pretty interesting though.
    Its the same output, and 50 bucks more...
    Not worth it , IMO.

    both are 30 amps and both will output 400 watts into Your bank.

    You probably found the best deal out there, unless You find it on sale on the bay.
    hostis est intra portas tuas

  4. #164
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    Aug 2013
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    Palestine TEXAS
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    last thing...
    Fuses...

    The T class fuses are the way to go from price and amps.
    To be safe, your battery bank should be fused between batteries and to the inverter.

    http://www.backwoodssolar.com/200-amp-class-t-fuse

    http://www.backwoodssolar.com/400-amp-class-t-fuse



    You can connect these with small bolts and lockwashers, and enclose them in a pvc conduit box for cheap.



    Magnetic re-settable BREAKERS, at this amperage, are super expensive, like what is in Your home fuse box, but for DC.
    hostis est intra portas tuas

  5. #165
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    Oct 2009
    Location
    Methuen, MA
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    Hey Blitz, gave renogy a call today and in my application it's not necessary to ground the charge controller. All other grounding to chassis etc is fine after the charge controller.

    Cleaned the inside of the tank with a vac, will later slush some diesel around to clear residual "sand".


  6. #166
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Methuen, MA
    Posts
    323

    Default Update and Attic Gold

    So I got the tcase shifter installed.

    I got the fuel tank in, have to stop saying “gas tank”, old habit.
    Plumbed a return line into the tank, using the 2 fuel lines from the dodge.

    I’m still going through the wiring for the engine harness sorting out what is necessary.

    Still need a driveshaft and brakes before I can move it around.

    The intercooler and bracket took up the space for the turn light / blackouts which you can see here (sorry about the angle):


    I’m thinking about going with these:
    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...153_0416801425

    On another note. I do some work for a buddy that does clean outs and junk removal http://junkjunkbaby.com/ There’s stuff on this project from jobs, like the lawn mower.

    He was contacted by some producers in New York for a reality show and we got the thumbs up! It’s going to be on the diy network called “Attic Gold”, like their show Garage Gold. Stay tuned!

  7. #167
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    Oct 2009
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    Methuen, MA
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    Found those same grote led signals for 35 each on the bay

  8. #168
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    Oct 2009
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    Methuen, MA
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    Ok guys, we're getting into the cooler weather with mist, water, ice and snow falling from the sky slowing the already slow progress. I'll probably be going into more part collecting, working when I can when I have the time.

    The good news is that we have started filming the show and I will have some more cash to buy parts.
    The show is a blast, we have a great cast of characters and awesome crew. It's cool because not a lot of reality shows make it up to new england. Maybe I can get the truck on the show in the spring when it's up and running.

    I'm far right

  9. #169
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    Aug 2013
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    Palestine TEXAS
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    Awesome Man.

    I cant wait to see the show.

    Really cool theme.

    Break a Leg !
    hostis est intra portas tuas

  10. #170
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    Oct 2009
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    Thanks Blitz.
    I'll keep you guys posted when it airs, the day and timeslot.

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