fastfrankie : Vette Master Cylinder

[PseudoZone]

Vette Master Cylinder
Post by fastfrankie on Dec 23, 2006, 4:45pm

I am picking up a 76 manual Vette master cylinder tomorrow...I plan on mouting it up as well.

Three questions - I plan on lengthening the stock rod about 3/4" is that the right amount? Where is the best place to cut the rod before welding it into the 1/2" angle channel? Also, how long of a piece of channel do you use....about two inch piece? Pics would be great!

How many of you bench bleed the master on the truck? I usually do one in a vise, but it would be alot easier on the truck.

Also there is an old thread about all the parts needed at NAPA...for example a 3/16" line plug...and it give the number #131 but then there is an x3 next to it? What is the x3

Also there is an x2 next to the 3/16" line butt splice #302x2
What is the x2? Part of the part number i assume or times two?

[PseudoZone]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by tacomainoh on Dec 23, 2006, 5:14pm

1. I would use tube instead of channel. Or just make a new pushrod entirely. Channel is butch! LOL

2. You can't BENCH BLEED the cylinder on the truck, that would be "truck bleeding" LOL just messing with you. It's actually easier in a vise. I had to bleed one in the truck and it kind of sucks. Wait. I did mine on the bumper. It would be easier w/pedal pressure and a helper, but doing it on the bench saves some time.

3. I would guess the x2, x3 is multiple items.... I have that thread printed out somewhere, if I can find it.

[PseudoZone]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by fastfrankie on Dec 23, 2006, 6:30pm

If I have a helper then I can bleed it on the truck then correct? LOL I think that is easier for me...a friend pumps the pedal and I just hold the lines in the resivior in the brake fluid watching the bubbles....
The channel may be a hack but under the dash no one will see it and my welding skills are good so it wont break etc.

[PseudoZone]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by rpgdeity on Dec 23, 2006, 7:45pm

I just picked up the Vette master cylinder and all the odd peieces needed at Napa earlier this week. The "x2" and "x3" are part of the part number. I thought they meant "times 2" also, lol.

[Barrman]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by barrman on Dec 23, 2006, 9:29pm

There are two ways to "bench bleed" a master cylinder. Both include filling it full of fluid. If your mc came with the little plastic fittings and the little plastic hoses, hold them in the top and gently push until no more bubbles appear.

If your mc comes with the little plastic plugs. Put them in. Just push real easy until no more bubbles come up or until your assistant yells that fluid is coming out of the plastic plugs.

I like to do either way in the truck with the mc bolted in. Less chances to spill all the fluid on your fenders.

[PseudoZone]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by berkahna on Dec 24, 2006, 1:14am

I used the stock length rod with my vette cylinder with no problems and have very good brakes and good pedal hight.

[PseudoZone]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by fastfrankie on Dec 24, 2006, 9:04am

Guys thanks for the opinions....as fas as the x2 and x3, being a teacher I am in the "multiplying mode" lol! Glad to hear its part of the part number and I couldn't think why you would need more than one of anything listed anyway!
I think I am just going to lengthen the rod about a half inch or so just to be on the safe side to get a higher pedal. Seems some here say the stock rod is fine and other say to add close to an inch to get a higher pedal. Maybe I'll do a 1/2" as a happy medium...
Going to pick up the vette cylinder in a few hours and begin this project on Tuesday!

[bluesman2a]

Re: Vette Master Cylinder
Post by bluesman2a on Dec 24, 2006, 11:13pm

You can pretty easily make a new rod. I made a new one out of a like 7/16 nut (use whatever size is closest to the post on the brake pedal, then drill the threads out to make it smooth, you want a fairly snug final fit).

Once you have that, cut the head off a bolt the right size and cut to the right length, then weld it together.