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head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by koobster on Oct 16, 2006, 12:51am I replaced my head gasket 2 weeks ago. the truck has not run since. When i am TDC the dimple is between 3 ans 4 o'clock, both #1 lifters are lose, #1 fires when the piston is all the way up. Head compression is 35 psi. #1 spark plug is dry as a bone, #6 is wet(fuel). Does the gasket req sealant? |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by robertcowan on Oct 16, 2006, 12:57am YES THE GASKET DOES NEED SEALANT BUT YOU GOT THE TIMMING OFF PAL. TIME TO UNDO IT AND DO IT AGAIN. |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by koobster on Oct 16, 2006, 1:13am thats what i thought. How much sealant does it req? Is there a way to adjust the cam gear without tearing down the front of the eng? |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by brute4c on Oct 16, 2006, 9:36am You can pry the cam gear off the end of the cam with a prybar, but the big problem is getting things set right.....the procedure from the manuals requires that you can see the crank end due to the way the 230 chain is setup...they use copper links located 32 teeth apart on the chain as part of the initial timing chain setup....there is a timing mark on the crank sprocket and one of the copper links will line up with that on the drivers side of the engine as viewed from the front. This will put the other copper link on the uppper drivers side in the region of the lower edge of the cam sprocket...but the book doesnt show a timing mark on the cam sprocket in order to align the upper copper link to...heres the whole deal from an email I sent out this weekend... [Start book section] A. Turn over the engine until air starts to blow from the number 1 spark plug port to indicate the number 1 piston is on the compression stroke. Continue to turn over the engine until the keyways in the crankshaft are in the 12 o'clock position to indicate that the number 1 piston is at top dead center.. B. Temporarily install the camshaft sprocket and turn the camshafy until the nose of the number 1 cam lobe and the dowel hole on the camshaft are pointing downward at the 6 o'clock position. In this position, both valves are closed. This occures when the associated piston is in the top center position of the compression stroke. Remove the camshaft sprocket. C. In stall the woodruff key into the crankshaft keyway nearest the cylinder block. Install the timing chain sprocket remover and installer on the rocker arm cover studs. (Figure 3-7) ![]() MY NOTE: I know guys are doing this without this tool...I believe they pry the pulley up onto the cam with a prybar in the slots in the cam pulley...be careful but that is the way it is routinely done. D. Position the crankshaft timing chain sprocket and the camshaft timing chain sprocket in opposite ends of the timing chain sprocket so that the keyway of the timing chain sprocket is up and the dowel of the camshaft sprocket is down. Position the parts so that the copper links of the chain are aligned with the timing marks on the sprockets. The copper segments are 32 links apart. MY NOTE: From what I understand, there is a timing mark on the crank sprocket that you need to line the lower copper link of the chain up to on the drivers side...the other copper link, that is 32 links away, should then be up high on the drivers side at the cam sprocket. If I remember right, they count every segment from one copper link to the next....the outer piece and the inner piece between the outer pieces...some people count just the out parts but this is not the case here. E. Lift up the assembled chain and sprockets and slide the timing chain sprocket on the crakshaft so that the sprocket is fully seated. F. Engage the hook of the timing chain sprocket remover and installer tool in the camshaft sprocket. Tighten the nut to tension the chain and pull the mounting hole of the sprocket into alignment with the pilot on the end of the camshaft so that the dowl engages the hole in the flange of the camshaft. This may require slight rotation of the crankshaft to secure perfect alignment. G. Position the fuel pump eccentric on the camshaft sprocket. Install the cap screw, lockwasher and flat washer. H. Release tension of the timing chain sprocket remover and installer tool and remove the tool from the rocker arm cover studs. I. Install the timing chain guide bracket on the front of the block and adjust to contact the chain. Note: The timing chain bracket guide should be set so the tight side of the chain is deflected .060" to .120" from its free position after the cam bearing deck has been properly torqued to the cylinder head and block. [End book section] With all that in mind, I am not sure that one could be accurate in setting up the chain without having the timing cover removed...which we both know isnt the funnest thing in the world to do... |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by koobster on Oct 16, 2006, 12:18pm thanks jon. looks like i will have to take off the front cover.grrrrrrrrrrr |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by brute4c on Oct 16, 2006, 12:32pm Unfortunately it looks that way to me...I wish there was an easier way... |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by oilcan on Oct 16, 2006, 11:13pm Just a note to add to your note, Jon. I changed the cam in my 230 without the tool to hold the gear up, but I used a piece of angle iron held up by a pair of jack stands on the inner fenders. Hook a ratchet strap to the gear, wrap it around the angle, and we're in business. Back to your regularly scheduled program... |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by brute4c on Oct 17, 2006, 9:49am There is a good idea for that part!! |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by dj on Oct 22, 2006, 9:38pm Are these tools available? Does someone have one,that a person could get measurements from? Should be able to fabricate fairly easily I would think. |
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Re: head gasket replacement please HELP
Post by brute4c on Oct 23, 2006, 5:38pm Once in a great while you see one on ebay... |
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